{"id":6411,"date":"2023-02-02T03:57:18","date_gmt":"2023-02-01T20:57:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/?page_id=6411"},"modified":"2025-09-19T18:04:26","modified_gmt":"2025-09-19T11:04:26","slug":"uzbekistan","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/?page_id=6411","title":{"rendered":"UZBEKISTAN"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Day 77-82 (Beyneu-Khiva)<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

We are now in the ancient silk road city of Khiva in Uzbekistan. From the Aktau to the town of Beyneu in Kazakstan it was 500 km cycling thorugh the desert and from Beyneu to Khiva it has been another 700 km mainly through desert.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have passed some small town and villages on our way here. Some of them have been in the middle of the desert and with a seriously poor road leading to them and with at least 100 km to the next similar settlement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In these villages\/towns there are activities going on. Kids go to school and adults are busy doing their chores, but the contact with the surrounding world must be minimal and I wonder what they do a Saturday night in for example a little town like Shetpe. There can\u2019t be much entertainment in town and the distance to the next town and the condition of the road makes it difficult to go there. Eventhough I grew up in a small place in Sweden I think I had way better opportunities to interact with people outside my village than the people in these towns and I every time I have visited these small desert towns I get more and more happy that my Mum and Dad didn\u2019t bring me up in a burning hot and sandy town far far far from the rest of the world.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ancient fortress on top of a hill in Uzbekistan<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Beyneu was the first decent sized town we came to and even that was a town which felt far from the rest of the world, but it had something that we enjoyed highly \u2013 running water. We are so used to get as much water as we please from our taps and maybe it takes a tour through the desert and taking care of the daily hygien with less than a liter to understand how precious water really is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bread being baked at the truck stop we stayed at during our second night in Uzbekistan<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>Bread being baked at the truck stop we stayed at during our second night in Uzbekistan<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We spent a day in the not very bustling city of Beyneu by taking care of things needed to be taken care of and that was washing, cleaning bikes, blogging and sleeping. We also visited the local market where we bought a footprint for our tent\u2026. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wej buying a oilcloth to use as a footprint for our tent<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Well, it is actually not a real footprint but an oilcloth with a pattern of ladybugs that will provide extra protection from the nasty thorns that could otherwise penetrate the floor of our tent. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Beyneu it was about 90 km to the Uzbek border. We didn\u2019t intend to cross the border the same day so we started a bit late. The road towards the border is gravel and full of pot holes. Knowing it would be a race once in Uzbekistan we cycled slowly and went in to one of those little desert villages to buy some cold drinks to our lunch. I must say it again \u2013 it can\u2019t be fun to grow up in the middle of the desert and the nearest town is a town like Beyneu.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arriving in one of those desert villages where I am happy I didn’t grow up<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We stopped 6 km short of the border to Uzbekistan. The reason for this was that Uzbekistan has a system where foreign tourists have to register at a hotel at least every third day. It is 430 km from the border to the nearest hotel and therefore our intention was to enter early in the morning and then go as far as we could that day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We had learned that the border passage was open 24 hours, but when we arrived at 7.30 we found out that it actually was closed for a shift change between 7-9. At around 9.30 we were let in to the border building and could start the customs procedure. When entering Uzbekistan one has to declare all currency, valuable items, vehicles (bicycles), medicines etc. before entering the country. We were six people in the group and it took until noon until we could start cycling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once inside Uzbekistan the condition of the road improved significantly. While it was a dirt road on the Kazak side it was a fine asphalt road on the Uzbek side. Sometimes the tarmac was a bit broken but for most of the time it was of good quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The road is straight to say the least. During our first day in Uzbekistan we cycled 110 km without making a single turn. It could have been boring but since we had a good tailwind we could cruise across the desert at good speed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In thai the word for desert is translated as \u201dsea of sand\u201d and I now I really understand why. The landscape was very flat and when turing around 360 degrees and seing nothing but a sandy horizon line it is not far away to call it \u201dsea of sand\u201d.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The bar at the truck stop we stayed at 30 km west of Kungrad<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Seing a truck approaching from far away was like seeing a ship. First we saw the top of it and then after a while all of it became visable and then it took a long while until we actually met it.
This vast land of nothingness is hard to understand and I can\u2019t really tell if I like it or not. On the bad road in Kazakstan it was a struggle to move forward and all focus was on finding a line through all the pot holes and cracks, but on the good road in Uzbekistan there was more time to look around. I wouldn\u2019t like to live in this area but I am glad to have been able to visit it. Being in a group of friends also makes it easier, but I think I could also enjoy the solitude if we would travel without our current companions. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tortkul to the right – will this be the place where will run out of toothpaste Micke???<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

During the second day in Uzbekistan we cycled 183 km and that is the longest I have ever cycled with a loaded touring bike. We had to make it reach Nukus in three days and decided to make use the middle day to get some extra kilometers done. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our group is not really a group but individuals who happen to travel the same route at the same time. We cycle at different speeds and soon after we start biking we are all spread out, but we agree on where to meet around lunch and where to stop. During this long day there was a misunderstanding and half of the group went camping while our New Zealand friend and ourselves continued 2 km past the agreed camp site to a truck stop where we could enjoy a shower, food at the restaurant and sleep for free at the eating platforms outside the restaurant. After 183 km on the road it felt very good to be able to shower properly instead of doing it with 700 ml water.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Uzbekistan has a high inflation rate and the official exchange rate is 25% below the one on the black market. This pile of money is what we got when we exchanged 300 USD<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The following morning we had some 35 km to ride to Kungrad and right outside Kungrad the desert ended. It was not a gradual change, it was rather like a line in the terrain. West of that line sandy desert and east of it greenery. It is the water stolen from the Aral Sea that makes it possible to create green areas in the desert. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we cycle in these green areas we feel like when cycling in Thailand. It is hot and a lot more humid than in the desert. Apart from the cotton fields there are lots of rice paddies and fields where vegetables are grown. At the roadside people sell water melons from small stalls and the villages are close to each other and there are a lot of people everywhere. But the greenery ends just as quickly as it starts. It is so evident that where there are no irrigation canals, there will simply be a sandy desert.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hotel Nukus looking good from the outside….<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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But not as good on the inside….<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Arriving at Nukus we checked in at the cheapest hotel in town. It looked good from the outside, but the interior certainly had seen better days. Everything was in desperate need of repair and the 12 dollars per night each of us paid felt like a bit to much for what we got. Personally I would have prefered to stay at place like the truck stop last night, but we had to stay at the hotel to get the registration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Igor Savitsky’s museum<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>Nukus has one attraction and that is Igor Savitsky\u2019s art museum. Savitsky was an artist from Moscow who settled down in Nukus and started to collect avant garde art from all corners of the Soviet union. The Kremlin knew about this, but since it was so far off from everything they let him do it and now his museum is the place to visit if one wants to see the art from artists who didn\u2019t follow the communist art style.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Enjoying soviet modern art in the midst of the desert<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It took us two days to cycle from Nukus to the ancient silk road town of Khiva where we are right now. Khiva\u2019s old city is just wonderful and not until we arrived here did we really get the feeling that we are traveling along the classic silk road. Take a look at the post Wej just made (in thai) and you will see some pictures of the old town in Khiva. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tomorrow we will set out for the four day ride to Bukhara which is the next classic town on the silk road.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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City wall around old Khiva<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Building in old Khiva<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Inside old Khiva<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 77<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:               81.5  km
Traveling time       9.35  hours
Cycling time          6.38  hours
Average speed      12.3  km\/h
Top speed             25.9  km\/h
Altitude gained       253  m
Altitude lost            182  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66078169<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics Cycling day 78a \u2013 Kazakstan side  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:                 6.4  km
Traveling time       0.31  hours
Cycling time          0.31  hours
Average speed      12.4  km\/h
Top speed             14.8  km\/h
Altitude gained           4  m
Altitude lost                2  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66078111<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cycling day 78b \u2013 Uzbekistan side<\/em> <\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:            107.6  km
Traveling time       5.00  hours
Cycling time          8.10  hours
Average speed      21.6  km\/h
Top speed             28.4  km\/h
Altitude gained       120  m
Altitude lost              58  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/65583378<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics Cycling day 79 <\/em> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:            183.1  km
Traveling time     13.42  hours
Cycling time          8.49  hours
Average speed      20.8  km\/h
Top speed             30.0  km\/h
Altitude gained         85  m
Altitude lost            139  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/65583363<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for cycling day 80  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:            144.2  km
Traveling time     11.44  hours
Cycling time          7.56  hours
Average speed      18.2  km\/h
Top speed             28.1  km\/h
Altitude gained         93  m
Altitude lost            112  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/65583319<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 83-86 (Khiva-Bukhara)<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

We have been on the classic trade route called the silk road for some time now, but it isn\u2019t until recently that we have got the feeling of really traveling on it. The magnificent buildings in the ancient cities of Khiva and Bukhara made me get a feeling of being present in the orient. Marvellous mosques and madrases covered in marble and mosaicwith blue cupolas that glitter in the sunset would make anyone get the feeling of being in \u201dAlladinland\u201d.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Portal in Bukhara. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Silk Road was the old trade route between China and Europe \/ North Africa and for centuries different sorts of goods was carried along it in caravans. Today the trade along the Silk Road is still going strong, but the means of transportation is no longer camels, but trucks. We see quite a lot of them along the road as we ride on and many of those trucks have come from countries far away. Every day we see trucks from our baltic neighbours (Lativa and Lithuania), Belarus and sometimes even Poland. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I admire those truck drivers who spend long time away from their families driving their trucks day after day on poor roads and across numerous country borders that I believe take a long time to get past. Everytime I see a truck from Latvia I get the feeling that the world isn\u2019t that big at all \u2013 it feels like meeting someone from the neigbouring block when visiting a far away place.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Having lunch in the shade of a bulldozer<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Talking about trucks. When we sat and had our breakfast at a Chaichana (tea house) a few days ago, we saw a truck approaching. When it was close we saw that the trailer was carrying a load of a big wooden ship and none of us could understand why anyone would need a big wooden ship in the middle of the Uzbek desert. The owner of the tea house later told us they sometimes transport old ships like that from the Aral sea where it\u2019s not needed anymore, to Tajikistan. One can wonder where in Tajikistan they would have use for old wooden ships? Maybe they use them as firewood\u2026.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wej folding real money the way chinese people fold fake money to burn on their ancestors’ graves <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The landscape between Khiva and Bukhara consists of just another great desert. It isn\u2019t too fun to cycle on such a flat landscape that when the road disappears it is because of the Earth\u2019s curvature and not of any hill. This time the desert wasn\u2019t so flat and there were small hills all the time and I appreciated to not have to see how the road disappeared below the horizon far away in front of us. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first 70-80 km out of Khiva were more interesting since we rode on a small road in an area where there is water and hence green and populated. We stopped to have water melons before leaving the green area and heading into the desert. Since we still are a loosely connected group we tie a blue scarf along the road when we have stopped somewhere to show the friends who ride more slowly where to look for us.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A flowerbed outside a tea house. Note the surrounding wall made of water bottles filled with sand.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Eventhough there was greenery both around Khiva and Bukhara we still felt that this road was the section through the desert was the most boring road so far on this journey. The views were not interesting, the heat was intense and the road was mostly good. When the road is bad one has to concentrate on finding an ideal line and not riding into pot holes, but when the road is good one has time to sit and look at the boring landscape. I needed to muster all of my goal orientation capabilities to be able to ride this road, not because it was so hard but because it was so boring. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The weather in the desert is not only hot. One day it was very windy and the crosswind kept blowing sand into our faces and eyes. Eventhough the wind was slightly from behind it was so hard that it was difficult to cycle and when we saw a tea house after having cycled for 50 km we decided to make a long stop to wait for the wind to cease. Three hours later the wind was almost gone but when we prepared to start to cycle it started to rain. It was not a cold rain like back home and it didn\u2019t last very long but we managed to get really wet. An amazing experience in the desert. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A tea house that specialized in fish dishes in the middle of the desert.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chaikanas (tea houses) are small restaurants where we stop to have a break and get something to eat. We had read that there would be a section of the road of more than 100 km without any tea houses but we didn\u2019t really know exactly where. This led us to always carry a full load of water. If anyone reads this who intend to ride between Khiva and Bukhara I can just tell you that there are tea houses every 20-40 km and there is no need to carry more water than is needed for half a day.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Boys with a nicely decorated bicycle<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The tea houses are a very simple restaurant where travelers stop to drink tea and eat simple meals. The guests sit on platforms with a low table in the middle and there are platforms both inside the building and outside. It also seems that these tea houses are a popluar place for truckers to spend the night at. A couple of times we have asked if we can sleep at the tea houses and it has never been a problem. The staff just point at a platform where we can sleep. Sometimes other guests who drink vodka a few tables away have disturbed our sleep but for me that has not been a too big trouble.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A tea house where we spent a few hours<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The owner and the chef of the tea house<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>One afternoon when we arrived to a tea house we saw that they had a yurt in front of it. There were a lot of trees in the area and we saw water hoses on the ground. This led us to ask if we could stay in the yurt, which we could. Normally we don\u2019t have to pay for the accomodation at the tea houses and only pay for the food, but at the yurt we had to pay the equivalent of 40 US Cents each. <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The yurt that would be our home for the night.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Our German friend Simon has been dreaming of staying in a yurt for 15 years and now it was going to become true, and on a very special day for him. The following day was his birthday and he would wake up in a yurt \u2013 a perfect birthday present.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The colourful inside of the yurt’s roof<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>Having slept in yurt before I didn\u2019t enjoy it in any particular way. What I enjoyed most with this tea house was the water hose. I went into the little garden beside and used the hose as a shower. It felt wonderful after a day of cycling with temperatures going as far up as 45 in the shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our group is soon going to split and since it was Simon\u2019s birthday we decided to camp in the desert and he invited us to his birthday party consisting of biscuits and two big bottles of beer. Not that we got drunk but it was a nice feeling to sit in the desert watching the clear sky with thousands of stars while having a beer and interesting conversations.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Birthday party in the desert<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Someone suggested that we should play cards and use the 1000 Som notes as stakes. Everyone laughed at the idea since the 1000 Som has very little value. Wej then suggested that we could use a glass of water as stakes instead but was immediately met with an unison \u201dno \u2013 that is far too expensive\u2026.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Central asia is not known as a region famous for its cuisine and we often have discussions what we dream of eating. A pizza and a beer has been on the wish list for some time and this became a reality by accident\u2026 When riding into Bukhara Wej and I took the wrong road but we spotted an Italian restaurant so there was a big advantage in getting lost\u2026 <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finally – pizza and beer \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One of those things we really want to eat is potatoes and one evening here in Bukhara another german cyclist went out to buy some potatoes that he boiled and invited us to share with him. It was wonderful to eat plain potatoes and dip them into salt. I don\u2019t think I have ever dreamt about eating only plain potatoes since during my survival training in the army\u2026\u2026<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Enjoying boiled potatoes at the guest house. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bukhara is one of the classic cities along the Uzbek part of the Silk Road. We have spent some time just walking around admiring all the old beuatiful buildings. It doesn\u2019t feel as over-renovated as in Khiva and the city feels more lively. One day we went up to the \u201dArk\u201d which was the former government palace located on a hill. It is now a museum but only 20 % of the buildings in the 4 hectare palace area is still intact. The remaining 80% is just rubble from when the Bolsheviks bombed the area in the 1920:s.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On the palace ground. The flat area in front of us is what is left from the bombardments of the 1920:s<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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More remains from the bombardments<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Young boys playing football in front of half a millenium old buildings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Statistics Cycling day 81 <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:            114.1  km
Traveling time     11.14  hours
Cycling time          6.55  hours
Average speed      16.5  km\/h
Top speed             37.4  km\/h
Altitude gained       205  m
Altitude lost            199  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/65583283<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 82  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:              70.2  km
Traveling time       6.17  hours
Cycling time          3.46  hours
Average speed      18.6  km\/h
Top speed             28.8  km\/h
Altitude gained         27  m
Altitude lost              36  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/65583254<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 83  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:             115.5  km
Traveling time      11.41  hours
Cycling time          6.01  hours
Average speed      19.2  km\/h
Top speed             31.7  km\/h
Altitude gained       125  m
Altitude lost              66  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66950555<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 84  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:             118.6  km
Traveling time      13.32  hours
Cycling time          6.06  hours
Average speed      19.5  km\/h
Top speed             40.3  km\/h
Altitude gained       414  m
Altitude lost            326  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66950491<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 85  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:             124.6  km
Traveling time      12.39  hours
Cycling time          5.58  hours
Average speed      20.9  km\/h
Top speed             37.1  km\/h
Altitude gained       317  m
Altitude lost            307  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66950420<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for cycling day 86  <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:               92.9  km
Traveling time       5.47  hours
Cycling time          4.16  hours
Average speed      21.8  km\/h
Top speed             29.5  km\/h
Altitude gained         52  m
Altitude lost              19  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/66950367<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Toothpaste quiz<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

On April 10th we opened a new standard size (160 gram) tube of Sensodyne toothpaste. We didn\u2019t know how long it would last and we thought it would be fun to let the followers of our blog guess. The award for the the best guess would be a postcard from the town where the tube finally got empty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We got a number of predictions and first to drop out was Iain who guessed Samsun in Turkey. Then we passed a number of locations where our readers had guessed we would run out of toothpaste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have discussed among ourselves who we thought would be the lucky winner and if there would be any postcards for sale there. This problem is now solved since we today ran out of toothpaste in Uzbekistan\u2019s most touristy town which is\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

S A M A R K A N D<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There were a few guesses in Uzbekistan and around but there was one guess that was spot on and that was made by Ryszard from Chelmno<\/strong> who predicted we would finish the tube in Samarkand.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wej and Ryzsard outside the hotel where we stayed and where he works.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ryzsard works at the hotel in the little nice town of Chelmno in northern Poland and we met him briefly on March 3rd outside the hotel when we were about to leave and he was coming to work. We only had a short conversation for 3-4 minutes but have stayed in touch ever since. Ryszard is also one of the most ardent followers of our blog and has e-mailed us many questions and advices about the areas we are riding through. We remember that Ryzsard once told us both his family and his collegues follow this blog and Wej and I usually refer to them as our \u201cChelmno Fan Club\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We would like to congratulate Ryszard and the rest of the Chelmno fan club for making such a spot on guess and we ask you to quickly send an e-mail with your address so that we can send the postcard to you tomorrow.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wej with the empty toothpaste tube outside Samarkand’s most famous landmark – the Registan<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Day 87-88 (Bukhara-Samarkand)<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Leave a reply<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our plan was to have to stay in Bukhara for two days for rest and sightseeing. On the afternoon before departure Wej and I went out for a walk and I once again suffered from a very peculiar muscle pain in my tighs. It is a pain that I started to feel about four months ago, only during rest days and only when walking really slowly. The strange thing is that it is an instant pain in both legs simultaneously and first time I can recall it happening was during the week we visited Sweden (april). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It has only happened during restdays and only when walking slowly. First time it happened I stopped to do some stretching and then it went away. This feeling has then re-occured during restdays all the way, but it has only been a short pain and I have never suffered from it while cycling.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Getting ready to leave the guesthouse in Bukhara<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Wej and I went for a walk in the old town before leaving Bukhara and then it happened again. The pain was more intense and wouldn\u2019t go away. When I woke up the following morning my legs were all stiff and I worried it would be hard to cycle. When in the saddle I immediately started to feel the pain that I had only felt when walking slowly. We tried to cycle a few kilometers, but then I decided to return and rest one more day. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back at the guesthouse I contacted friends back home who are doctor and physiotherapist. They both thought it was some sort of over exhaustion and told me to rest and maybe eat som anti imflammatory medicine. I did that and the following morning I felt good and we could start our ride towards Samarkand. This meant that we were one day behind schedule.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Om du n\u00e5gonsin kommer fram till Samarkand \ud83d\ude42<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Although we only saw one sign showing the way to Samarkand it wasn\u2019t hard at all to find the way out of Bukhara. The area around the city is very green and there are villages and towns all the way. Wej and I decided to stop after two hours of cycling to have a cup of coffe and some kefir at a restaurant. We were offered bread too, but we are by now so sick of the bread here that we didn\u2019t want any.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a 2-3 hours we saw our german friend Simon enjoying a short break in the shade of a tree outside a little shop. Our group had split in Bukhara, but since we were all going in the same direction it was very plausible we would meet again. We rode together for a while and then split again when Wej and I stopped for some reason I can\u2019t remember.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Having coffe and kefir in a roadside restaurant<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After 60 km the greenery ended abruptly and was replaced by desert. The road made a sharp turn and we got a strong headwind straight into our faces. It was the start of a tough part of the day, but soon we got some relief.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few kilometers into the desert we were overtaken by a Landrover with lots of stickers, jerrycans on the roof and other signs of being a \u201dround-the-world-car\u201d. We have seen cars like this many times, but this one stopped 100 meters in front of us. The car was driven by a french couple on the way to Australia and then maybe south america.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The french globetrotters behind their Land Rover<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

They gave us lots of cold water from their fridge and they were very curious about our trip. Being cyclists themselves they suggested that we should come and visit them in their village in the Pyrenees some time. They even said that we were welcome to use their house even if they still were traveling. What a marvelous offer \u2013 we will definately try to go and visit them some time, but then with our roadbikes instead of the heavy bikes we now ride. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We lost sight of Simon just before the desert but after fighting for two hours in the dry headwind we found him taking a break at a cafe \/ hotel at Navois airport. We were also very exhausted, the headwind was strong and it was terribly hot so we decided to take a break there too. After one and a half hour the headwind ceased and we could go on cycling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Simon and we decided to continue together and in order to make it to Samarkand the day after we needed to make at least 30 more kilometers. With a good road and without any wind we quickly got to the city of Navoi. Since the area is densely populated we didn\u2019t have any big hopes of finding any good spot to camp so we hoped we would find some tea house somewhere. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

After passing through Navoi we found a TIR-park which is effectively a truck stop. We went in to ask if we could stay there and of course we were welcome. They served us tea and offered us to shower. Simon found a bench outside where he could sleep while Wej and I paid 5 dollars to sleep in a room. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the TIR-park we met an Uzbek truck driver who drives his truck between Uzbekistan and Poland and Germany. He told us it takes 6 days to drive to Poland and 7 to Berlin and then the same time back home again. I don\u2019t envy him driving on poor roads and passing many time consuming borders. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We usually go to bed rather early to be able to wake up at 5 AM and there were not many trucks at the TIR-park when we went to bed, but there were lots of them when we woke up. Many of the trucks are obviously bought second hand from Germany since they have logos from German companies. They don\u2019t look old and worn out as one could suspect, instead they look to be in good condition. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sk\u00e4rmavbild<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A lot of the trucks at this TIR-park and the ones we meet along the road are Volvo and Scania trucks. Every time I see a Volvo truck I think that maybe that specific truck was produced at the factory back in G\u00f6teborg. When seeing all those Swedish made trucks it is easy to understand why these two companies have such a major importance for the Swedish industry. Land locked countries have difficulties developing an export based economy and Uzbekistan is one of the two double land locked countries in the world (the other one is Lichtenstein) so it must be very complicated to set up an export industry here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was a little more than 150 km from the TIR-park we stayed to the center of Samarkand so we woke up at 5 AM the following morning in order to get as far as possible before the midday heat. There was hardly any wind at all and the road was good so we made good progress during the early hours. The wind picked up around 10 AM and it started to get hot and at noon we had only cycled 80 km when we decided to take a short cut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Leaving the TIR-park in the early morning<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>It was maybe a shortcut, but the quality of the road was so poor that it was impossible to ride at normal speed. We soon understood that we would bike 30-50 km at slow speed through nothingness and when we at came to a hill top with green trees we decided to stop. This little hill was like an oasis and somewhere there was a well because water was flowing from a pipe into a ditch. We decided to stop on the hill and bought a melon from a roadside vendor.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This truck with a very long load stopped and the driver came out to fetch water to throw over the engine to cool it down. <\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It was interesting to observe the well. Bypassers stopped to fill water bottles. Overheated trucks stopped and their drivers fetched waters with buckets and threw it onto their engines to cool them down. A couple of times tank trucks came to fill their huge tanks and transport the water somewhere else. They simply drove under the pipe and let all the water flow into the tank and anyone who wanted water while they were filling had to open a valve at the rear of the truck and fill the bottles from the truck instead of from the pipe.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The tank truck that came to fill water several times<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The heat turned into a more bearable temperature in the late afternoon and we started to bike the remaining 65 km into Samarkand. Beyond our oasis hill the road got even worse and there were endless hills. I started to suspect that unless the road got better we would never be able to get to Samarkand that day.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Probably the son of the tank truck driver<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fortunately the road got better and the headwind ceased too, so we managed to reach Samarkand just before darkness. It was a long hard day, but just as in the wellknown Swedish song we reached to Samarkand that day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 87<\/em> <\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:             117.2  km
Traveling time     12.34  hours
Cycling time          6.35  hours
Average speed      17.8  km\/h
Top speed             25.6  km\/h
Altitude gained       162  m
Altitude lost              39  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/68270419<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Statistics for Cycling day 88 <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Distance:             152.0  km
Traveling time     14.37  hours
Cycling time          8.55  hours
Average speed      17.0  km\/h
Top speed             32.4  km\/h
Altitude gained       618  m
Altitude lost            264  m<\/p>\n\n\n\n

https:\/\/www.strava.com\/activities\/68270397<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Restdays in Samarkand<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

We arrived to Samarkand late last Friday with the intention to stay two or three days. The first day was planned to be a pure rest day while the others were planned for sightseeing. However, things did not turn out the way we planned to and we have spent most of the time here resting at the guesthouse which we now are just about to leave (Wednesday morning).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So what has happened?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uzbekistan has a size and shape very similar to Sweden. We will travel across from the very west end to the very east end which is almost exactly 2000 km. We have a 30 days visa and that is enough to travel 2000 km at a convenient speed and also have timeto stop and visit cities. However, the requirement to register at least every third day at a hotel licensed to host foreign tourists has forced us to press really hard through some empty desert sections without any hotels and it is fair to say that the ride from the port in Kazakstan to here has been tough. The road has been long and very often of bad quality, the weather has been hot or extremely hot and the time pressure added to this has finally taken its toll.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we got here we were exhausted. As I mentioned in a previous post the ususal rest day ache in my thighs got a lot worse in Bukhara and we were forced to take an extra rest day there. Here in Samarkand realitiy has in some way caught up with us and we have been sleeping most of the time. We planned to leave already yesterday, but in the morning my stomach was a bit upset and prevented us from leaving. It was just a short and not serious ordeal and it got better already around noon, but then I was too sleepy and powerless that I couldn\u2019t even think of start pedalling again. To make things worse I managed to bump into the sharp corner of the bed in our room and now I have a bruise on my thigh that matches the colours of the ancient cupolas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We knew we have pressed hard and we expected reactions like these but they came a little bit too early. Kyrgizstan doesn\u2019t require us to have a visa when entering the country and there are no obligations to register every few days. Our plan has therefore always been to stop for up to a week in Osh in Kyrgizstan to just rest, but we simply didn\u2019t make it there and had to rest here instead. We are not the only ones who have run into these kind of problems. At the time of writing there are 11 cyclists at the hostel and three more left yesterday night so the cyclists are in majority and all are to a varying degree exhausted for the same reasons as us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All this means that we did a lot less of sightseeing than we had planned to. We haven\u2019t entered many places, but just walking around in this amazing city can be enough. The architecture and all the old buildings are just magnificent. Please enjoy some of the photos below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The registan. Unfortunately there was a stage for an upcoming music festival that blocked the view.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Mosaic on a minaret<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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One of all those turqoise cupolas that shine so beautifully during sunsets<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Inside a big and old mosque<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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A mausoleum for some important person<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Two young girls in beautiful dresses visiting a mosque<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Portal to a mosque<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Lagman – a traditional Uzbek dish consisting of meat, vegetables and noodles<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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The cosy backyard of the guesthouse where we are staying<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Day 89-91 (Samarkand \u2013 Olmaliq)<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

6 Replies<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 89  <\/strong>Samarkand-Jizzakh 99 km
Day 90 <\/strong>Jizzakh-Yengiyer 128 km
Day 91 <\/strong>Yangiyer-Olmaliz 132 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 89 (Samarkand \u2013 Jizzakh)<\/strong>
Finally it was time to leave Samarkand. At the hostel there were now 11 cyclists and three had left the day before. Most of them are heading towards the Pamirs while some have just arrived from that area and are going towards Iran. We have been to the Pamirs before so we have decided since long ago to exit Uzbekistan through the Fergana valley.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Simon in the white shirt got the nick name “Jesus”. Maria from Switzerland managed to get an Iranian visa and biked through during the election times. It felt good that both Jesus and Maria waved good bye to us at the hostel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Simon in the white shirt got nicknamed \u201cJesus\u201d \u2013 take a close look and you\u2019ll see why. Maria from Switzerland managed to get an Iranian visa and biked through during the election times.
It felt good that both Jesus and Maria waved good bye to us at the hostel<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have now travelled together for more than a month. Not that we have been together all the time because we have split from time to time, but we have had these friends around us for some time now and it feels a bit sad to part.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n

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With our bikes in front of the Registan<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Saying goodbye took a long time and instead of starting at 7.00 we weren\u2019t on the road until 10.30. It was a strong headwind all day and we tried to cycle extra slowly to not run out of energy before arriving at the town of Jizzakh. Fortunately the temperature had dropped a few degrees and it was now possible to ride in the afternoon without suffering from the heat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The landscape after Samarkand is much more interesting than in the western part of the country. Green surroundings and everywhere we could see people working on the fields. It seems that the endless flatland is replaced by a landscape of small hills. Finally there is something nice to look at as we pedal through.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lunch break. Look at the delights on the big poster above<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When we thought that Jizzakh would be only 10-15 km away we saw from a distance how the road was going over a big steep hill. We were certainly not in the mood for any steep climbs but once we got to the start of that climb we saw a road sign telling that Jizzakh is to the left into the valley and Toshkent straight ahead over the hill. I can\u2019t remember when I was this lucky last time\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jizzakh is a bigger town than we had thought. Some swiss cyclists at the guesthouse in Samarkand had told us about a hotel near the railway station that is not only cheap but also able to register foreign tourists. The problem was that we couldn\u2019t find the hotel and when we saw a sign for another hotel we decided to try our luck there instead.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Finally some nice landscape again<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The hotel was located in a small side street with lots of commerce going on. The barber shops were open late and there were small restaurants and mini markets. Bread vendors sat next to each other selling exactly the same kind of bread. Do they compete or do they work together, or is it simply so that their breads taste differently? Our taste buds are not enough developed to detect any difference.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The side road was only 100 meter long but both of us got a feeling of being on a busy side street in Bangkok or any other Thai city during a late evening. The fact that people look more asian enhanced that feeling too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The hotel is a local business hotel with a standard that is higher than anything we have experienced for a very long time. It is a normal hotel room, it is very clean, has a nice bed, TV, fridge and a nice bathroom. We are not used to this standard anymore and got extra happy when we bumped into such a hotel by accident.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We almost didn\u2019t want to leave this nice hotel room<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I can\u2019t remember when I watched TV last time. Our hotel room had hundreds of channels but only 2-3 in English. The story of Edward Snowden was told and re-told again and again. Maybe not having access to TV is a good thing \u2013 I doubt I will become more enlighted by listeneing 5 times in one hour to the same interview with Snowden\u2019s lawyer telling he has brough some books and clothes to his client<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 90 (Jizzakh \u2013 Yangiyer)<\/strong>
We didn\u2019t want to leave our cosy and clean hotel room, but sometimes there is no mercy to be on a cycle tour. The visa clock for Uzbekistan is ticking and we must move on. Overstaying the visa validity in Uzbekistan is a really stupid thing to do since the fines are huge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was no wind in the morning and it was cooler than the days when we cycled to Samarkand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the way out of town we passed a very big market with roads leading through it. Some of these roads through the market had sections where minibuses stop to pick up passangers and once again it felt like we were already in Thailand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our target for the day was the town of Gullistan. Outside town the road split and we could take either way to but we didn\u2019t know which to choose. Asking people only gave us very different answers until we met someone who argued that we should take the road towards Tashkent because it was of better quality and also shorter. We decided to follow that advice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The road was indeed good and we kept going at high speed. After 55 km we saw a big sign telling that we should go right at the next intersection. It felt a bit too early to turn, but if the signs say that is the way, then why hesitate?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soon we were on bumpy gravel roads and my built in compass made me feel that it was all wrong. We stopped and asked people and got more and more different answers and we felt really confused. Not that we don\u2019t believe the locals \u2013 they all know the road to Gulistan, but the language barrier made it problematic to communicate.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bumpy road leading in the wrong direction…. \ud83d\ude41<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We then met met a man could explain in a clear and simple way how to get back to the road we should have been on (we had turned off the highway too early). He even drew a detailed map how to get there and finally we felt sure about the way. However, that man\u2019s advices wasn\u2019t worth much if we didn\u2019t follow them and just at the junction after a canal where he told us to go straight, we turned right\u2026. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have done many tours by bicycle  and shouldn\u2019t fall into such easy traps. The rule is to always aske two different persons for direction and if the indicate the same then go that way. If the indicate different ways, then ask more people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The guy who made the map told us to go straight, then when at the intersection we asked another one, who clearly got confused by the question and first told us to go straight, but then changed his mind to turn right. So now we had two different opinions and the rule is then to ask more people, but we didn\u2019t and ended up in the wrong town and loosing 40-50 km.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Maybe some cotton will make my saddle softer…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fortunately some cyclists at the guesthouse in Samarkand had told us about this town and that there was a hotel there so we knew there would be somewhere we could stay. We saw a car parked at the side of the highway about one kilometer outside town and we thought it could be a good idea to stop and ask for directions to the hotel. When getting closer to the car we saw a women sitting in the backseat facing backwards and below her the head of a man who had his face forward. Something was obviously going on in that car that we didn\u2019t want to interrupt and we decided to continue and ask someone else instead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One kilometer down the road road goes up on a ramp to a bridge across the railway. We saw another car parked below that ramp but it was difficult to get to so we decided to ask someone else. When we were on that ramp we it was once again obvious what was going on in that other car too.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Train seen from the bridge after riding past the cars with the love couples<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Secret activities in two cars within a kilometer from each other \u2013 this must be a sign of something. Either it was dirty business going on in those cars or the youngsters in that little town have nowhere to be alone with their girl\/boyfriends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we finally arrived in the hotel we were told we can stay for free and the only thing we had to pay for was the food in the restaurant. We were very careful when we studied the prices in the meny but it turned out to be normal prices that we would have payed anywhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 91 (Yangiyer \u2013 Olmaliq)<\/strong>
The hotel only had four rooms and no breakfast was included and knowing we would be in the bigger town of Gulistan within 90 minutes we only ate a couple of sandwiches in the room before leaving.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The small family run hotel we stayed. Half of the family had emigrated to Israel but came back one month every year.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We never went into the center of Gulistan and only passed it on the big highway leading to Tashkent. There were lots of small stalls selling water, soft drinks and bread but we decided to stop at one just after the town. The one we found looked different from the others. It had a single table with a plate with boiled eggs for the guests to eat and so we decided to stop at that little pretty place. We are traveling through tea land now but this place had coffee where you could select if you wanted sugar and milk instead of the disgusting 3in1 instant coffee that are usually served. Plenty of fresh pirogs made it to be the complete roadside breakfast to be had in this country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The little roadside shop we had breakfast at<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The people running the place were very nice too. I think they were ethnic russians and spoke only uzbek and russian, but we managed to have some fun while we enjoyed our breakfast. A neighbour to the lady running the place dropped by and got engaged in the conversation and told us he had been posted to south Poland during his army service many decades ago. When we left, the shopkeepers daughter offered us some free icecream which we really enjoyed since it already had started to get hot.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The shopkeeper, her mother and neighbour<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The road was very good and we moved forward at a steady pace of 25 km\/h which is good with our heavy bikes. While cruising at high speed we discussed when we had a flat tyre last time. That was a stupid thing to do because at the next intersection I heard a \u201dpffft\u201d sound and I had got another flat. A new rule is to never talk about flat tyres\u2026..<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After fixing my flat tyre we turned east from the main road leading to Tashkent. We were afraid it would be of poor quality, but it turned out to be very good and we could keep on going at good speed passing endless cotton fields.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cotton fields and irrigation canals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It is melon season now and we enjoy one or two stops a water melon vendor each day. They usually put their melons in a big pile and sit and wait for customers in the shade.
We drink a lot during a day and eating water melons is a welcome change to drinking warm water from our bottles. Since we sweat a lot (our shirt gets white stripes of salt on the back each day) both of us has got an increased taste for salt. We both miss the salt and dried chilli mix that is included when buying fresh fruit from vendors in Thailand.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Melons…. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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It’s a hard work to sell melons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We stopped one more time to eat some bread and buy some water at another roadside vendor selling \u201dayran\u201d which we learned to enjoy in Turkey. Ayran is a mix of youghurt and water with added salt. Three ladies were selling home made ayran beside the road just next to a huge pipe pouring out water into a canal. It was a good place to make money since many of the people who stopped to fetch water or just wash their faces also bought some ayran.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ladies selling ayran and cold drinks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Soaking my feet at in cold water while being watched by a donkey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the late afternoon we approached the city of Olmaliq. A week ago I didn\u2019t know that there was a city with this name, but before leaving Samarkand I googled the town and knew it was a city relying on heavy industry. Already far from town we saw big piles of slag and tall chimneys from which grey smoke was billowing up to the sky. It didn\u2019t look healthy and when we rode past the piles of slag we could see that the factory was very old and worn I thought it all resembled the factory portraied in the Deer Hunter movie.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Where’s Robert de Niro???<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As mentioned before we do feel a bit exhausted and we have decided to opt for the simple and convenient way of doing things which means staying at hotels. The good thing with this is also that we get the opportunity to collect the stupid registration slips.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When passing the factory we saw no sign of where the city center is and we stopped a worker walking towards the bus stop to ask for directions into town. He made a very precise description and we started to pedal the remaining 4 km to the center. After a kilometer we came to yet another old and very worn industrial building with the fancy name of \u201dlocomotive deposi\u201d on it. We guess it was a train depot and the little monument outside was just as colorful that the rest of the building was not\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Locomotiv monument<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>The city was bigger than we thought and we stopped at a large intersection to ask for directions to the hotel which was just behind the next corner. I went in and found a very charming lady who certainly hadn\u2019t understood that the soviet union had ceased to exist. She didn\u2019t know how to smile, she almost yelled at me and she only rose from her chair to go and slap the feet of a teenager who wasn\u2019t sitting properly in the sofas. Besides the customer friendly appeal it was also ridicously expensive so I showed her a bit of the basics in a market economy by simply walking away. She had the supply of rooms, but the demand was gone. A little bit more customer oriented behaviour would have led to some cash in the register\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wej was waiting outside and next to the reception there was a large dining room and loud music came from it. We glanced into the room and could see old ladies having dinner while young girls in traditional dresses had a dance show to the rock\u2019n roll version of the traditional russian song \u201dOchie Chornie\u201d (Black Eyes) which I am sure you all know when you hear it.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Young dancer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We met people outside the hotel who told us there were a much nicer hotel in the other end of the city center. They made a simple map of how to go there and off we went. At an intersection we stopped to ask a young man for further directions and the first thing he did was to ask if I was a spy. I sincerely hope he was ironic but unfortunately he didn\u2019t look lite that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we were wating for green light at another intersection another young man walked up to us and started to talk to us in very good English. It turned out that he just got his degree from Tashkent university where he had majored in Enlish. Now he is eager to go and study for a masters degree and he is eying at Korea or Malaysia. I hope he succeds because Uzbekistan needs more people like him.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally we made it to the hotel that turned out to be more expensive than we had been told. It was too late to go for the plan B which was to go out of town and find a tea house where we could camp. There was no option than to accept, pay and check in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When cycling to the hotel we passed a place selling d\u00f6ner kebap and still on the bikes we decided to have our dinner there. Later when we left the hotel to walk there we found a schaslyk (barbecue) restaurant only 100 meter from the hotel. It was more of a local pub than a restaurant and it was very busy since it was a Friday night. Russian and western music was played inside and the guests were talking loudly not only because of the volume of the music but also of the volume of beer they had consumed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We decided to sit at one of the tables on the outside and the servant was busy running in and out all the time. The owner was tending to the schaslyk grill on the pavement and when a fist fight started some 15-20 meters away he quickly told all able men to go and separate the fighters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sitting in this local pub, seeing all these men from the factory enjoying their Friday night made me once again think Pennsylvanian town portrayed in the Deer Hunter \u2013 maybe it has a sister town in Uzbekistan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 92-95 (Fergana valley)<\/a><\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Day 92 Olmaliq \u2013 mountains east of Angren\u00a0<\/strong>
It is a late Sunday evening and I am sitting in the garden in our little B&B in Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgizstan. Today has been a nice day with some clouds and cool temperatures (still above 30 though). This evening we enjoy a cool breeze that makes the leaves of the trees in the garden tremble and in the afternoon we even enjoyed a light summer rain. Tomorrow is our cycling day and we hope this kind of nice and cool weather will keep us company on our journey up to the Kyrgiz mountains.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So how did we get here?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uzbekistan is a country we only planned to visit for a few days but since we couldn\u2019t go through Iran due to the presidential elections we had to re-route and take the ferry across the Caspian Sea and then cycle across Uzbekistan from the very west to the very east. It turned out to be 2068 km and Uzbekistan is the country that we have cycled most kilometers in so far and it has been an interesting experience I will later write a separate article about. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uzbekistan has large deserts but after we left Samarkand we were in densely populated areas. We traveled through the cotton areas around Yangiyer and Gulistan and passed Olmalia which is a town of heavy and dirty industry. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just as in the former Soviet union Uzbekistan still requires foreign tourists to register every 3 days and this is an issue that lessens the joy of traveling in this wonderful country. When we left Samarkand I was tired after pressing hard for almost four consequtive weeks and I needed a rest, but since our Uzbek visa was running out we couldn\u2019t afford to stop for any more days and had to press on in order to get out in time.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Soviet style sculptures at the exit of Olmaliq<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I was tired and exhausted in Olmaliq and to be honest I was a bit worried about my ability to continue according to our plan. When we left Olmaliq I immediately felt that my legs were not up to the task of riding long distances. There was no pain or muscle ache in my legs but I felt they were stiff and powerless so we could only progress slowly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Fergana valley is a small but important part of Uzbekistan and there is only one road leading to it across a high mountain pass. As soon as we got out of Olmaliq city and onto the highway towards the Fergana valley the intensity of the traffic grew significantly. I was not in the mood for anything and just kept pedalling behind Wej to make the kilometers pass as smooth as possible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was not very far to the town of Angren, only some 55 km from Olmaliq but whithout power in my legs it felt like it would be closer to the moon. Some 10 km before the town a car pulled up beside us and the guys inside wanted to chat. I was extremely exhausted and were not in the mood for talking so I went to the side and let Wej take care of the talking. We didn\u2019t stop but Wej managed to have a conversation as we cycled beside the car and it ended with the guy in the passenger seat handing over a handful of peaches. After the car left we stopped and ate those God sent peaches. The strenght we got from those sweet fruits only lasted a few kilometers and when I saw a bus stop I just had to stop and get a rest. After sleepting on the narrow seat of that bus stop for about 45 minutes I felt I had got my strenght back and we could ride into Angren without problem.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Taking a nap at a bus stop<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

40 km beyond Angren there is a massive climb up to 2200 meters and our aim was to find somewhere to stay that was not far from the start of the climb. But how to do that when completely out of power?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We were hungry when we cycled into town but we didn\u2019t stop at the very first eatery. When we finally stopped for lunch we chose a place where we could both eat and enjoy an afternoon nap. The restaurant had no menu and we opted for the simple solution and ordered something we knew \u2013 a \u201dlagman\u201d which is a traditional noodle soup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have had Lagman many times before and they are neither good or bad. It is a simple noodle soup with meat, noodles and vegetables. But at this place we got something different. The noodles were not served as a soup but more like a spagetti dish with only a little liquid at the bottom of the plate. We also got a little side dish with a brown-red paste that we didn\u2019t know what it was but we put it on the noodles and\u2026\u2026\u2026 wow\u2026\u2026..\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Lagman or khao soi?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

That paste was a chilli paste and it was very spicy and did lift the experience of the lagman to a new dimension. With that side dish of chilli the lagman actually turned out to be very similar to \u201dkhao soi\u201d which is a traditional dish in northern Thailand. The lagman-khao soi lunch brought our spirits back and Wej enjoyed it so much that she even ordered a second plate. Wej also carefully noted what that chilipaste dish is called in Uzbek in order to be able to order it again later on.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Happy again after some rest and lagman with Chiang Mai style chilli paste<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We were heading towards the Fergana valley which is a politically sensitive are that has seen heavy and deadly military crackdown on riots that have caused Sweden and most other western countries to issue warnings against unnecessary travel in the valley. However, travelers we meet keep telling us that people in the Fergana valley are even more hospitable than in the rest of the country so we continued towards it with high expectations. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Between us and our high expectations of the Fergana valley stood a tall mountain range. We didn\u2019t want to climb it the same day but we wanted to get as close to the start of the climb as possible. Due to the political unrest the single road to the Fergana valley passes two military check points where we as foreigners had to register. It was not any big issue and the soldiers where very friendly and since it was already late they invited us to pitch our tent on the little lawn in front of their office. We thanked them for their kind offer but told them we had to go and eat at the restaurant a kilometer down the road and then maybe come back. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have been to similar situations before and we know what to expect. Once the soldiers are off duty they will start to drink and ask to try our bikes which is something we never let anyone do. Riding fully loaded bike is difficult and it is easy to fall and break some parts that we will have troubles to find replacements for.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Our dinner and rest place<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

When people ask to try our bikes we politely decline, but how to do decline when a guy carrying a Kalshnikov asks??? Besides this it was still to early to camp so we decided to proceed further and some 15 kilometers later we found a tea house that was clinging on the rock next to the river. We ordered some food and asked if we could stay for the night and just like everywhere else in Uzbekistan the answer was yes. After having a bath in the river below the restaurant we quickly fell asleep on the same platform as where we had eaten our dinner.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
\u0e27\u0e34\u0e27\u0e08\u0e32\u0e01\u0e23\u0e49\u0e32\u0e19\u0e2d\u0e32\u0e2b\u0e32\u0e23\u0e1a\u0e19\u0e20\u0e39\u0e40\u0e02\u0e32\u0e17\u0e35\u0e48\u0e40\u0e23\u0e32\u0e02\u0e2d\u0e40\u0e02\u0e32\u0e19\u0e2d\u0e19\u0e04\u0e49\u0e32\u0e07\u0e04\u0e37\u0e19<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 93 Mountain pass \u2013 Kokhand<\/strong>
Today was a mountain stage and the climb started only 8 km after we left the restaurant where we had slept the previous night. The weather was pleasant and although it was warm it was far from the intense heat below the mountains. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We still were suffering from the previous days of hard riding and thus we climbed very slowly in order to preserve our strengths. There are tea houses and vendors selling drinks all the way and we stopped at a few of them to rest and drink.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Resting and having something cold to drink while chatting with the locals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There are lots of military posts along the way up to the mountains and all of them had clear signs telling that photographing was forbidden. As mentioned earlier \u2013 we avoid playing with guys carrying Kalashnikovs \u2013 so there are very few photos from this part of the trip. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The road we were traveling on is the only road that connects the Fergana valley to the rest of the country and thus there is a lot of the traffic there and one thing was sure and that was the we were the ones who moved up most slowly that day. Endless number of trucks overtook us.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Up up up up up with a view of snowcapped mountains in the background<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One car that overtook us stopped in front of us and wanted to talk. It turned out to be a Malaysian family on a \u201dhalf-around-the-world-trip\u201d who now were heading to China. We have previously met European car tourists, but now when we are half ways they seem to be coming from the other direction too. It was great fun to meet someone from a neighbouring country, talk for a while and exchange experiences.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the top of the climb there are two tunnels that saved us a few more hundred meters of climbing. In front of the first tunnel there were soldiers checking our passports and in the other end there were another soldier, but he didn\u2019t bother to check them.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Talking to the Malaysian family<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The top of the pass was just between the two tunnels and once outside the second our time as the slowest vehicles on the road was up. Cruising at +50 km\/h we flew past the long row of heavy trucks that had to descent down the mountain using their lowest gears. It is not who is quickest up that counts\u2026.. it is quickest up AND down\u2026.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After 50 km of not needing to pedal the road finally evened out. The heat was back and two hours before entering Kokhand we experienced a sensational strong heat. The road was newly made and still completely black and we felt a strong heat radiating from below, just like when sitting too close to a fire. Since we were still rolling downhill at high speed it was only uncomfortable, but if we would have been riding the other directions it would have been completely impossible to pass that section since it felt like the road below us was burning.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
As soon as we stop somewhere we are quickly surrounded by people. Here Wej is in the center of everybody’s attention<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Day 94 Kokhand \u2013 south of Andijon<\/strong>
It is 170 km from Kokhand to Osh and that could be doable in a day, but not if also crossing a central asian border so we decided to cycle to somewhere beyond Andijon in order to be close to the border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We had checked in to Hotel Kokhand in order to get our last registration slip. When asking for it before going to bed they said thay we would get it in the morning which we accepted if they could it to us at 7 o\u2019clock which they promised. The next morning the very same guy asked us if we had got our registration slips\u2026\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The stamp was locked in the hotel\u2019s office safe and he didn\u2019t have the key. He told the manager would come and open it in 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 1 minute and so on. The manager came at 7.50 and opened the safe so that we could get our slips stamped. We cursed this soviet style hotel since we now had lost one hour of cycling which on a flat road like the one crossing the Fergana valley means loosing 25 km or one more hour in the striking afternoon heat.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Some men having breakfast at a tea house<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We managed to do 85 km before the heat struck and we had to seek refuge at a tea house beside the road where we stayed for two and a half hours. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

After having left the tea house and cycled through a village we saw a van coming up beside us. The guy in the passanger seat asked if we wanted icecream and showed two icecreams. First we thought they were icecream vendors, but when we stopped they just gave us the icecreams, said good luck and turned around and drove back to the village. Amazing hospitality in an area that is supposed to be dangerous\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Andijon is a big city and it usually takes long time to cycle in and out of big cities so we decided to go around it to find a tea house where we could sleep. Half an hour before sunset we stopped outside one and soon we were surrounded by people and one old man stepped forward and started to talk slowly in English. He asked were we were going to stay and when we replied we didn\u2019t know he suggested we stay at the tea house (our tactic worked once again).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The old man followed us into the tea house and we sat down to talk. He was accompanied by a young boy that turned out to be his 12 year old grandson. The boy spoke basic but good English and since he wanted to practice his English he talked a lot. The old man told us he was 75 years old, used to be an radio engineer and lived 300 meters from the tea house. The man and the boy joined us when we had our dinner and told us they would come back the next morning.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The old man and his grandson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We had hoped we could sleep on one of the outdoor eating platforms, but the manager then offered us to sleep in one of the private dining rooms. He thought it would be too cold outside, but sleeping in the dining room turned out to be like sleeping in a sauna\u2026. The hospitality shown to us is amazing \u2013 it is like being back in Turkey again.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The private dining room where we stayed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 95 Andijon \u2013 Osh<\/strong>
Knowing that we only had 40 km to Osh we didn\u2019t even set our alarm clock, but we woke up at 6.30 anyway. When we got out of our room the staff was busy preparing the food and we enjoyed watching the chefs as they prepared the various dishes to be offered that day. They tried to explain what they did but once again the language barrier made it difficult for us to understand.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Chef at work<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We decided to have spicy khao soi-looking lagman for breakfast and when as we were finishing our meal the old man and the boy came back and offered us to come over to their house to have coffee. It is always interesting to be invited to people\u2019s houses and we had plenty of time so we accepted the invitation.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Baker at work<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The house was actually two houses with a lovely garden with grapevines and fruit trees in between. We had coffee, bread, biscuits and I got some home made wine as a second breakfast. It was clear that both the old man and his grandson enjoyed to practice English and after a while the boy\u2019s sister joined in and she was also good at English. It seems that this family is really focused on learning foreign languages.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Grapes in the family garden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After spending about 1.5 hours at the family\u2019s house we finally left for the border. Since it is forbidden to bring out the local currency we had to stop at a shop close to the border to buy whatever they had that we might need. We ended up with coke, icecream, a new soap, some socks and a pen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the border it was extremely crowded and there was a long que to even get into the border area. We didn\u2019t line up among the people, but went in the line for trucks and rode up to the front of the line. A soldier saw us and let us through into the border control area without having to wait in that long line.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The uzbek family who invited us to a second breakfast<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There were many more lines to wait in. First line was to the customs to declare all our valuable belongings and foreign currencies. We saw a french backpacker couple in the front of the line and when an official took them aside, we quickly jumped the que and joined them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next que was to have our baggage X-rayed. We only x-rayed our handlebar bag since the bikes and the bikes wouldn\u2019t fit thew x-ray machine and would have to be inspected manually. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

After declaring the foreign currencies and getting our bags x-rayed it was time to line up in the long line for passport inspection. An official saw us and the french couple and came and told us to join him. He then put us at the front of the line and we got our passports stamped without even being asked to provide any of those registration slips we have worked so hard to get.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Documents needed to exit Uzbekistan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We were then released to go to Kyrgiz side of the border. Kyrgizstan has decided to become a country for tourists and got rid of all ridiculous visa requirements. We simply showed our passports to the official and 1 minute later we were through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We spent about one hour at the Uzbek side of the border and one minute on the Kyrgiz side. If we had waited in all those lines it would definately have taken a full day to pass and we felt a bit guilty as we past the people that had been waiting for hours. It didn\u2019t feel fair, but we didn\u2019t oppose being treated as VIP:s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is only 7 km from the border into downtown Osh and we went to a guesthouse where backpackers usually stay. At the guesthouse we once again met the polish and german cyclists we have been cycling with before and we went out to have dinner together with them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unfortunately it was extremely hot in the guesthouse so the following morning we decided to move to a better place with airconditioning.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Day 77-82 (Beyneu-Khiva) We are now in the ancient silk road city of Khiva in Uzbekistan. From the Aktau to the town of Beyneu in Kazakstan it was 500 km cycling thorugh the desert and from Beyneu to Khiva it has been another 700 km mainly through desert. We have passed some small town and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":6234,"menu_order":120,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-6411","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6411","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6411"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6411\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6437,"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6411\/revisions\/6437"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/6234"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclinghome.nu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6411"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}