Day 131 Langmusi – Zoige
Day 132 Zoige – Songpan
Day 133 Songpan – Taipingxiang
Day 134 Taipingxiang – Maoxian
Day 135 Duhiangyan – Chengdu

I have got a new and interesting experience….. For the first time since we left Sweden I have got a writer’s block and I have kept pushing the writing of this blog post forward day after day. This post will probably not be a literarary work that will get any awards, which has never been the purpose anyway. I write to tell you reader & follower about what we do along the way, how we feel and about meetings we have had. The purpose is to keep you informed about our whereabouts but also to help me remember what we actually did once this trip is concluded.

So here comes the story….

Langmusi is a small mountain town that sits at 3300 meters altitude. It has a very scenic locaction as it is squeezed between tall mountains and has two major tibetan temples and lots of other traditional buildings. When staying in Langmusi we had one day of sunshine, one cloudy day and one day with both snow and rain, but the common factor for all days was that it was cold, even when the sun was shining.

When it was time to leave it was still cold, but our aim was to only ride the 80 km to the next town (Zoige) which would take us across a plateu on 3500 meters altitude. Since the distance was short we could allow ourselves to pay a visit at one of the tibetan temples in town before our late departure from Langmusi.

The plateu was interesting. We have climbed up and down a lot of mountains the last weeks and all of sudden one climb didn’t end at a pass with a nice downhill ride on the other side. The climb just faded and a we could see how the road went across a very large plain encircled by tall mountains.

We were going to spend two days and around 200 km to cross this plain and our legs really liked to not have to put in so much effort as when climbing. A light tailwind helped to make it to an easy ride. Even if the cycling was easy it was still only between 5-8 degrees during the day and a cloudy sky.

The plateu is home to tibetan nomads. Herds of yaks and sheep could be seen everywhere and several times we cycled past camps with traditional tibetan symbols in the middle and a number of party tents with traditional decorations surrounding the camp. We think the tibetans living in this harsh environment would use better tents then party tents when taking their yaks to the summer pastures so we never understood what this was. There were many such camps and there were lots of activity at some of them. When we later saw tourist buses parked outside some of the camps we started to believe that all theses camps were some sort of activity centers set up for the upcoming holiday week.

It has happened many times that we believe a dot on the map is a small town, but when we arrive it turn out to be a big city. When we came to Zoige we expected a small city, but it turned out to be a rather small town in the middle of the plateu. We didn’t find any ordinary hotel which need license to host foreign tourists. Instead we found a small and cheap local hotel and those usually don’t care about registrations or licenses – they simply want to earn some money.

Before agreeing to the room we asked if there was heating and hot water and the answer was yes. This was true, but not at the time of our arrival (5 PM). The heaters and the hot water would be turned on at 8 PM and the only source of heating was the electrically heated mattress in our room….

The sky was clear the next morning. It feels like the higher altitude amplifies the weather conditions. When the weather is nasty, it gets really ugly, but when the sky is clear it can be amazingly beatiful with a very deep blue sky. We could enjoy this clear sky for a few hours before the clouds were back again.

Zoige is located at 3500 meter and the following 100 km would slowly take us up to 3850 meters before the start of a long descent towards the lowlands below. Our plan was to camp after about 80-100 km but since we had a steady tailwind we arrived early to the highest point and with the wind on our backs we couldn’t resist to continue doing the remaining 60 km downhill to the town of Songpan.

Just like Langmusi, Songpan is a center for various outdoor activities and everywhere we found chinese tourists dressed in outdoor clothes who had come to enjoy mountaineering, horseback riding, trekking or white water rafting.

The downhill continued the following day but now the wind had changed direction. The valley was deep and the wind got compressed created a strong headwind and we couldn’t roll down without pedalling 🙁 Why does it always feel like the wind is stronger when it is against us…. 😉
We met lots of chinese cyclists on the way up towards the mountains and it looked like they were traveling faster uphill than we did downhill…

In Songpan we heard about long and scary tunnels further on and when we stopped and talked to the chinese cyclists we got different messages. Some said the tunnels were unlit, while others said they were lit. One group told us that there were road works going on and the traffic in both directions would go in one tunnel while the other was being repaired. The diverging info was probably due to the language barrier but it still made us very concerned.

We only cycled 70 km out of Songpan before we thought it was time to camp. Being to lazy to cook ourselves we stopped outside an restaurant in a village to have dinner before finding somehwere to camp. Soon we understood that this wasn’t only a restaurant but also a hotel. After a bit of haggling about the price we checked in to a very cheap but nice looking room and went down to have dinner.

With a menu only in chinese and after a moment of total confusion the waiter called someone and 3 minutes later a young lady came over. She spoke good English and helped us to order the food. It turned out that she was the english teacher at the a boarding school for kids from the mountains that was located next door to the restaurant. While we waited for the food she took us over to the school to visit a class with 35 curious kids.

After a good nights sleep in the hotel room above the restaurant we continued downhill. The road was still in a very deep valley and kept following the meandering river. The intensity of the traffic had increased significantly since it was the day before the official start of the ”Golden Week” when China takes a week off to celebrate its national day.

An endless number of buses drove up towards the mountains, and in between them there were trucks and cars and everyone was overtaking everyone else even at sharp turns of the road. We have passed through countries and regions where the traffic standard is far from good but this was probably the worst so far and we didn’t feel completely safe.

In the city of Maoxian we had to make a decision. We knew there would be 10 tunnels with a length of between 2-7 km and crazy traffic. Safety is always the most important aspect to consider and we didn’t have to think long to decide to get past the tunnels by bus. The decision was made easier by getting back to the purpose of this journey – to discover what is between Göteborg and Bangkok and who the people who live there are. There is nothing to discover inside a tunnel and there certainly ain’t any people living there…..

Sitting on the bus we could conclude that we had made the right decision. Most of the tunnels were twin tunnels with one tube going in each direction, but some of them were under renovation and the traffic in both directions had to share one tunnel. And there were plenty of other buses and trucks in the tunnels too.

The tunnels were also long, veeery loooong. The longest was 7 km and it would have taken us around 25 very stressing minutes to pass so we were happy to be onboard a bus.

When we arrived to the bus terminal in the city of Dujiangyan we found a cheap hotel on top of the terminal building, but unfortunately it had no license to host foreigners. We ended up at the much more expensive hotel next to the bus station. Preparations for a wedding with lots of dressed up people were going on as we stepped in to the lobby dressed in our very dirty outdoor clothes…..

The next day into Chengdu would be the first day of the holiday and we expected the worst in terms of traffic. We decided to go on the small local road the 70 km into Chengdu. That small local road turned out to be a three lane highway with a separate lane for cyclists and scooters. It was slightly downhill all the way and there were hardly any cars at all – they were probably already up in the mountains.

Chengdu with its suburbs has around 10 million people and could sound like a hard city to enter by bike. This couldn’t be more wrong since all roads in chinese cities have a very wide lane for cyclists and electric scooters which is even protected by a little fence. I wish we could have this kind of infrastructure back in Göteborg, not to mention Bamgkok.

Since it is a holiday time in China we have prebooked a room at a guesthouse. There are lots of mainly young chinese who spend their vacation week to visit Chengdu. Some of them are cyclists too…..

The day after we arrived to Chengdu we got accompanied by our polish friend Bartek, who made an navigational error and had to take another road. It was great to meet again and share stories. We don’t cycle together but since he is going to Singapore we expect to meet again and again in Kunming and Laos and hopefully in Bangkok.

After the rain comes the sun, and we left Gannan in a completely different wheather condition than we arrived in a day earlier. Sunshine and and no wind was a welcome change from the previous three days.

The area we are in now is on the border between Gansu and Sichuan provinces and tibetans make up if not a majority, then a large minority of the population. Apart from tibetans there are also a large proportion of muslims, so it is fair to say that it is a multi ethnical area.

To travel into Tibet province requires a special permit and that we join a guided group which is expensive and takes away a bit of the freedom of going wherever we would like to. Staying in this area means that we can enjoy a bit of tibetan culture and landscape without really going there.

Our first encounter with tibetan buddhism was when we came speeding down a hill and saw a shrine at the side of the road. It looked really exotic to us and we stopped to have a close look at it. Not familiar with the tibetan traditions we didn’t really understand why the shrine was put at that place and what the purpose was.

An hour or two later we speeded down yet another downhill section and arrived into a small village. Even if the village was small it still had a large temple complex. We had made a late start from Gannan and didn’t really have time for any stops, but our curiosity was great and we turned around and went in on the temple yard. A monk came out and invited us to tea in his room which had almost nothing but the most necessary items such as a table, a stove, a book shelf and a mattress to sleep on. Above the monk’s bed there was a large photo of Dalai Lama which surprised me since I thought portraits of him are banned.

The monk spoke only tibetan and chinese but we managed to communicate somehow. He clearly liked that Wej is from a buddhist country and after having had a few cups of tea he wanted to show us the main hall in the temple. We stepped in and found a large buddha statue in the center of the building that was decorated in bright colours. The basics is the same as in a thai temple but the art work and the decorations is very different from what can be seen in Thailand.

As we started late from Gannan we didn’t get very far that day. The aim was to get to the town of Luqu where we knew there would be hotels, but 5 km outside we found a spot for our tent that was too good to miss. We pitched the tent, went to the nearby stream to wash ourselves, cooked our food and went to bed. 5 minutes after closing the tent door it started to rain – that was a perfect timing…. 🙂

It rained through the night and when we woke up it was still raining. Our motivation to get out of our warm and cosy sleeping beds and get out into the rain was low so we decided to sleep another 45 minutes. When we woke up a second time there rain had stopped – good timing again….

The rest of the day offered us two surprises – no more rain and no flat tyres. What else can a long distance cyclist ask for…. ????

In the evening we arrived to the tiny town of Langmusi which is a tibetan alpine looking town squeezed in between tall mountains. Appearantly the town is going to focus even more on tourism since there were constructions of new hotels going on at a lot of places in the center. We found a guesthouse and since it is low season we got an entire dormitory with 8 beds to ourselves.

The tourists who come here are mainly internal chinese tourists and the main attractions are the outdoors. The attractions here are trekking, riding, fishing and all kind of outdoor activities. Most of the buildings are decorated in traditional tibetan way and the town had a very pleasant atmosphere so we decided to stay a day here to rest.

When we had our breakfast at a restaurant the following morning we saw a sign that offered horseback riding in the mountains. When in Kashgar in the far west of China Wej wanted to join a camel riding tour in the desert but since we didn’t know if we had time for it we decided to not do it. Now when we know we have time, we decided to go for the riding trip.

Two hours later we were presented to our guide and our horses. After half an hour of instruction we led our horses out of town. We were told that since these horses only walk on grass they don’t need any shoes which means that they can’t be ridden on the road so we had to lead them for a kilometer out of town.

I can’t remember ever having ridden a horse on my own before but it worked just fine. The guide rode behind us and told us when to turn right or left, but most of the time the horses turned before he told us to tell the horses to turn. I guess it depends on these horses do this tour a hundred times a year….

It was anyway a fascinating feeling to ride a horse surrounded by the tall mountains. It was a wonderful weather with a blue sky, no wind and pleasant temperatures. We went along a small creek that we had to cross over a couple of times and I must say that horseback riding was really exciting and I consider to once I am back in Sweden take lessons to learn to ride properly. The distance we covered with these horses was a lot longer than we would have done if we had walked ourselves – the idea of learning to ride and then travel to Kyrgyzstan or Mongolia to do a longer horse trek has got stuck in my brain.

I know I completely lack the technique of riding properly and I noticed that after a day of horseback riding my body was aching pretty much everywhere. It is funny that I can sit on a bicycle day after day and feel nothing but a few hours of riding a horse made my knees and bottom hurt a lot.

Before going to bed we decided to stay another day in Langmusi and do nothing but sleep and rest. It was a bit cloudy in the morning but in the afternoon the sky got clear again. We felt that it was a pity to not cycle when the conditions were so favourable, but it was very nice to just hang around doing nothing.

After two days of rest in Langmusi it was time to start cycling again, but when we woke up at 6.30 we could hear it was raining outside. Why does it have to be good weather when we stop and bad when we need to cycle???

When I finally went up from my warm and cousy bed I took a quick look out of the window. A black car was parked on the opposite side of the road, but it was something strange with it because it had a white roof. I then realised that it was SNOW….. Well, we are in a mountain region where it can snow anytime and I guessed that this car had come down from higher altitudes where it had snowed during the night. Then I saw that there was snow on the roof of the building next door…..

Apparently it had snowed during the night and the rainfall we could hear from our room was snow mixed rain and this didn’t make us very excited about the idea of getting up on our bikes again. Those of you who have followd this blog from the start know that we have cycled through a lot harsher winter conditions than this when we passed through central Europe in March, but we still felt it was too short between the last snowfall in Bucharest in April and China in September. After a very short discussion we decided to stay another day and hope that the weather will improve tomorrow…..

A tale of rain and hills

Right now we are in an intensive cycling period and we try to cycle as much as possible and avoid any long stops. There are two reasons for this and one is that we want to get south and away from the autumn as fast as we can and the other one is that we need to think of our visa extension which need to be done somewhere around Chengdu by the end of this month or early October.

We try to not have any rest days now, but put in some days with easy cycling or days with only half the normal distances. The day when we left Minhe was such a day. We checked out from the hotel at 1 PM and started cycling at 2 PM. It was downhill and tailwind on good roads and to cycle 66 km under those circumstances was just like having a restday. The ride was not very exiting and after the last few days of cycling in a fantastic landscape there is really nothing comparable to say about this day’s ride. It was 66 pleasant kilometers on a busy road without any exiting sights along the way.

Our Polish friend started before us and we didn’t expect to catch up with him the same day. Later that day we learned that he had made an navigational error and were 40 km behind us instead of the same distance ahead of us. Taking the wrong turn is never fun and it happens to all touring cyclists. Our most recent experience was when we lost some 50 km due to a wrong turn at an intersection in Uzbekistan.

In the late afternoon we finally reached the banks of the Yellow River. We crossed it twice in two days but the second crossing was on a much more spectacular place than the first one and we count this as our midpoint on our way through China.

For those of you who check our daily map section we have now split the maps in China part 1 and China part 2 because there would be too many maps under one single country. The split was planned to be done when we reached the midpoint, i.e. the Yellow River.

We have now camped three nights in a row. Our first camp site was right outside a sleepy village on the shore of the Yellow River and just at beginning of the first of the two major climbs we were to deal with the coming day.

Finding spots to pitch the tent is still easy and this one was one of the most convenient so far. It was on a little hill behind an abandoned house and although close to the road it wasn’t visable. 100 meter away there was a little stream of clear water that we could use for washing ourselves in.

The next morning we woke up to the sound of rain falling on the roof of our tent. It is never fun, especially when you camp on a dirt hill which would be very muddy when it rains. We stayed in bed half an hour extra and when we finally got out the rain had stopped. After having cycled for about 1 km it started again and we did the 10 km climb of 600 meter in heavy rain. Not very fun when we have sent our rain proof jackets to Bangkok…..

At the top of the climb there was a short tunnel and on the far side of the tunnel we found a little shop where we stopped to ask for hot water in which we poured instant coffee. We were soaking wet and didn’t really look forward to the 17 km downhill speed. Wet clothes, cold weather and high speed is a freezing combination. But it was a joy to roll 17 km without having to turn the pedals even once.

We were now back at the Yellow River and went in to the city of Yongjing to find some warm place where we could eat and dry our clothes. To our great satisfaction the rain stopped while we were having lunch and 7 km beyond the city center we came back to the Yellow River which here had very high banks and the bridge spanning across the river was very high.

Immediately after crossing the yellow bridge over the Yellow River we started climb number two this day. This climb was a 20 km long and took us up almost 900 meters along the sides of the mountains with an endless number of terraces. It was still cloudy and sometimes a bit foggy and the photos we took didn’t come out very good.

Once we had got up on the mountain we thought it would be a smooth ride, but no….. There were lots of very small climbs and after all previous climbing that day they felt like killer climbs. We actually prefer one very long climb where we can keep our pace for a long time instead of many small ones where it is necessary to change speed, gears, cadence and everything else that breaks the rythm.

Our aim was to cycle 130 km and reach the town of Linxia, but after having cycled almost 100 km and climbed 1900 meters it finally got dark and we had to find somewhere to camp. This time it turned out to be a flat area just before the last village the start of the descent down to the city. We were close, but riding on those roads in darkness is a bad idea so we had to stop.

The following morning we woke up to the sound of……. raindrops falling on our tent…..
Fortunately it stopped and we could pack our gear and rush the remaning 25 km into town where we bought some ponchos and had a long lunch break. When leaving town we came to a roundabout that was very muddy due to ongoing roadworks. There were lots of traffic and in the midst of all this Wej got a flat tyre on her rear wheel.

We had already done 30 km and it was another 100 km and 1200 meters climb to the next city (Gannan) which we knew was too far for us so our intention was to camp. In the middle of nowhere we suddenly found a tourist information office along our way. We stopped and went in and since it was raining again (now we had ponchos so it wasn’t a problem) we asked for nearby hotels. The staff told us there was one 30 km further on and we rushed there only to find it was a simple and dirty guesthouse that was closed. There was nothing to do but to pitch our tent beside the streem a few hundred meters away.

This time it rained when we went to bed and it still rained when we woke up. The surrounding hilltops were completely covered by clouds that poured out its content over us. It was 35 km and 500 meter climb to the town of Gannan where we intended to stay at a hotel, take a half day off and do some laundry and dry our gear. It was raining and uphill but we had a tailwind and our ponchos worked like sails…. About halfway Wej got yet another flat tyre, but this time at a very convenient place right beside a tunnel under the highway that is under construction. We could change to a new innertube without having to get wet.

Arriving in Gannan we tried the first hotel we passed by, but it had no license to host foreigners. They informed us about two hotels which have the license, but when we cycled past the first one we saw that it was undergoing a complete renovation and the second hotel turned out to be fully booked. The rain had stopped but after three rainy nights in our tent we were not in the mood for this sort of games and the staff at the fully booked hotel called the police to ask what to do. The police told about a third hotel with license to host foreigners and sent out an officer who was on lunch break to show us the way there.

This afternoon I also got a text message from Fisher, the chinese cyclist we cycled with a few days ago. He sent a message to tell us that there had been an earthquake in Menyuan where we stayed together less than a week ago. It was 5.1 on the Richter scale which is not too strong. Nobody seems to be hurt, but we are glad we weren’t there when it happened.

Day 120 Zhangye – Minle 69 km
Day 121 Minle – Ebuchen 62 km
Day 122 Ebuchen – Menyuan 97 km
Day 123 Menyuan – Ganchankou 106 km
Day 124 Ganchankou – Minhe 120 km

After having spent a month in the chinese deserts of Taklamakan and Gobi we have now entered the mountainous areas of Qinghai province in central China. Gone are the dry days with only sand and stone and now we have started to enjoy high altitudes, rain, cold weather and steep climbs.

The landscape that we have passed the last few days have been absolutely stunning and there are not words to describe how beautiful the sceneries have been. The saying that a picture says more than a thousand words is what comes to my mind so I in this blog post I will let the photos speak….

Day 120 Zhangye – Minle
One of the advantages with going by bus for 450 km was that we could catch up with Bartek from Poland whom we cycled through Kazakstan and most of Uzbekistan with. We stayed at the same hotel in Zhangye and since he is going to Singapore we will be riding pretty much the same route all the way to Bangkok. We don’t cycle together during the days but try to get to the same place in the evenings.

As we left Zhangye we cycled past some buildings that looked very traditionally chinese.

The areas surrounding Zhangye seems busy with all sorts of agricultural activities. After a month in the desert we highly enjoyed seing colorful flower fields.

Zhangye is situated at about 1500 meters altitude just north of a mountain range. Since we are heading south we would have to pass those mountains and the road out of Zhange would take us slowly up to 3700 meters in 100 kilometers.

The gradient from the city to the mountain pass is not steep at all. The road is straight and only slowly uphill and it would definately be possible to go straight from Zhangye to the pass at 3700 meters in one day if it wasn’t for the altitude related problems such a quick ascent would cause. Our plan was therefore to stay at the town of Minle which is located around 2300 meters above the sea level.

About half way to Minle we caught up with Bartek who was eating a light lunch at a shop in a village. We joined him and had a delicious lunch consisting of instant noodles and some chocalates…..

When we arrived in Minle we discovered a rather big town that would definately be called a city in Sweden. When we cycled past Bartek we made a plan that we would go ahead and look for a hotel and if we couldn’t find any we would send and SMS to him and then go and find a good place to camp outside the town.

Fortunately we found a good and very priceworthy hotel. We paid the equivalent of 18 Euros for a room for all three of us that had a nice bathroom, good beds and a proper internet connection.

Day 121 Minle – Ebuzhen
The mountain pass above Minle is actually a double pass. The first pass is slightly below 3700 and the next one 30 km later is almost 3800 meter high. Our plan when leaving Minle was to get past at least the first one and if possible also the second one.

We were a bit concerned that this would be a too quick ascent that could cause us altitude related problems. During our trip in Pamir two years ago we both suffered swollen faces and in Kyrgyzstan a month ago Wej got a swollen face while we both had light head aches. 3800 meters is not very high but it seems that both of us are a bit sensitive to high altitude but we hoped that our recent stay in Kyrgyzstan had made us at least a bit aclimatized to the altitudes we were now going to spend time at.

The ride out of Minle was wonderful. It is late summer or early autumn here and everywhere people were busy harvesting whatever they grow in their fields. The tailwind that pushed us up to Minle the day before wasn’t as strong this day but it was an easy uphill ride.

Bartek had left Minle almost two hours before us and when we got a glimpse of another cyclist far ahead of us we were quite sure that it was him. When we got closer it turned out that it wasn’t Bartek after all, it turned out to be a chinese cyclist who introduced himself as ”Fisher”.

Fisher spoke very good english and we stopped and talked to him for almost half an hour before we continued. He told us he has an education in computer science and worked with software development for three years when he realized that he wanted to travel around China by bike.

When leaving Minle we cycled past farms and fields for a few hours before the landscape got more barren and steppe like. The views resembled those we enjoyed in Kyrgyzstan a few weeks ago and instead of enjoying colorful flowers we now had to enjoy the views of Yaks and sheep in their summer pasture.

It turned out that we had no problems with the altitude and when we later caught up with Bartek he seemed to be doing just fine so we cycled ahead of him. Two hours later we stopped to wait for him 300 meters below the pass and when he arrived he was feeling bad. He had troubles with his stomach and had got a fever. I wasn’t sure, but I suspected that it was altitude related and we stopped for half an hour so that he could get some rest before deciding whether to go back or continue forward. Meanwhile, the chinese cyclist Fisher arrived and joined us. Bartek said he felt better and we decided to continue over the pass and down to the next village where we believed we could get some indoor accomodation.

The temperature dropped and when we finally arrived in the little village of Ebuzhen it was only 6-7 degrees and very windy. Fisher immediately started to run around to find accomodation while we and our shivering Polish friend who had a fever could do nothing but wait.

Day 122 Ebuzhen – Menyaun
Everytime we plan to enter a place we think will be a small town we run into a very big city. With Ebuzhen it was the other way around. We thought it would be a small town but it was only a medium sized village. The room Fisher had found for the four of us was just a simple room with two beds so Wej and I slept on our own mattresses on the floor while Fisher and Bartek had a bed each.

As we prepared to leave I got to witness where Yak meat comes from. I saw how two men led a yak into the backyard behind our guesthous, put it on the ground and cut its throat over a big bucket to collect its blood. I haven’t seen such a big animal being slaughtered before so I watched the process with interest.

Some of you who follow this blog might find this pictures disgusting, but if you are a meat eater, then remember that all that meat on your dinner plate have gone through this process but maybe under more hygienic conditions.

Apart from watching a yak being slaughtered I also had to repair both my tyres. I knew that my rear tyre was leaking but I didn’t know there was a leak in my front tyre as well. If there is something I don’t like with this trip, then it is all the flat tyres and the number of flats has risen sharply since we entered China.

The landscape around Ebuzhen towards the next pass offered great views of snowcapped mountains. The area is very green and there are small farms along the road. I am not quite sure but it seems that there are Tibetans and Wei Muslims as well as Han Chinese living in this area. Many of the houses have very nice decorations but I am not sure which of the ethnicities that lives in this kind of house.

Bartek felt better this morning, but instead Fisher was feeling ill. He had to cycle very slowly and we didn’t want to leave him behind in that condition so we cycled with him to keep him company and be able to assist if needed. When we reached the pass at 3767 meters altitude after some 25 kilometers he had recovered completely and could go on at normal speed.

Just like all other uphill struggles this one also had a downhill joy on the other side of the pass. We quickly descended on the nice road and soon we left the grassy mountains behind us and entered into a valley with lots of people who were busy harvesting their fields.

We had all got split up during the day and Bartek was cycling in front of us while Fisher was behind. Fisher was going towards the city of Xining while Bartek and we were going to turn left for the city of Minhe some 100 km west of Lanzhou.

The weather got worse with increasing windspeed and dropping temperatures so Fisher decided to change his plan and ride with us instead. This would be a detour for him but very positive for us. Besides the good company Fisher could also manage to get us into a simple and cheap but very nice hotel that wouldn’t otherwise have been able to host foreigners. The situation was solved by Fisher renting a room and the staff turning a blind eye to him having three guests staying overnight in that room.

Day 123 Menyuan – Ganchankou
When we were cycling in the heat in the Kazak and Uzbek deserts we discussed if we would be able to get past the Taklamakan desert and get south before the arrival of autumn or if it would eventually catch up with us. Now we know the answer to that question. The autumn is here and the weather we are enjoying right now is very much like what we would expect in Sweden at this time of the year.

The alarm clock in the room that the four of us shared woke us up at 7 AM. Bartek went up to have a look at the weather and told us it was raining heavily. That was bad news for all of us but maybe mostly for Wej and me since we had decided to send home our rain gear and warm sweaters. Once outside it turned out to be 7-8 degrees, rain and windy. The only good thing was that the wind was on our backs.

Wej and I went to buy an extra sweater and long johns and when we were ready to leave the rain had already stopped, but it was still cloudy and cold. Even if the day started badly this was going to be one of the finest cycling days so far. A slow downhill, tailwind and a marvelous mountain scenery made this day a day to remember. We hope we will have plenty of days like this one during the coming month when we cycle through central China.

Fortunately the weather got better and we got some stunning views. We stopped very often to take photos and the pictures below are just a few.

Riding with company means that we can get some photos with the two of us in the same picture.

The little village of Ganchankou has nothing more than a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains and an intersection. The next morning Fisher would turn right towards Xining while Bartek and we would turn left towards Minhe and Lanzhou.

Day 124 Ganchankou – Minhe
After four people riding together for two days it was inevitable that someone sooner or later would get a flat tyre. Guess who was the lucky one to find a flat rear tyre in the morning…… At least I could sit inside the glass covered verandah to fix not only this puncture, but also the previous ones that hadn’t yet been repaired.

With bikes loaded onto bikes with tyres that hold the pressure we went to have breakfast which would be the last meal we shared with Fisher, at least on this journey. We hope to cycle with him in Thailand or in China some other time.

The last day in the valley between Menyuan and Minhe was just as beautiful and today we could even enjoy some nice weather with a clear sky and nice temperature. When I say nice temperature it means neither cold like yesterday nor hot like in the desert – it’s just pleasant and we can ride with a thin long sleeve shirt.

When we cycled along the Taklamakan desert we didn’t see how the local people live. The reason for that was that there were very few villages and that we mainly stayed on the motorway. This made us to see too much sand and rocks and too little of how the locals live. We have now left the motorway and cycle on very small roads and pass numerous villages and it is very interesting to see what they look like.

Some 40 kilometers before Minhe there was an abrupt change from a beautiful small road in a narrow valley to first a 20 km long section of dusty road work and then to busy suburbs with hundreds and hundreds of trucks carrying sand, rocks or coal. It was so dusty that we had difficulties seeing the road we were traveling on.

When we arrived into Minhe we were denied to stay at the first hotel we tried at. Our luck was better at the second one. Unfortunately the hotel has no luggage room so we had to bring our dusty bikes into the lift and park them in the room.

Day 116 Guazhou – Qiaowan 88 km
Day 117 Qiaowan – Qingquan 113 km
Day 118 Qingquan – Qingshui 141 km
Day 119 Qingshui – Zhangye 144 km

In my previous post I told about our decision to catch a bus 450 km to make up for the time we had to stop to service our bikes and make back up plans for our visa situation. Our initial intention was to cycle all the way and avoid public transportations, but the circumstances forced us to take a bus. In retrospect it feels that the only disadvantage with going by bus is that we won’t be able to say that we have cycled ALL the way to Bangkok – this cheat and the two previous ones will make up about 3-4% of the toal distance.

If there was one disadvantage to go by bus there were a couple of other advantages. One was that we could skip a boring section and the other was that we could catch up with our Polish friend Bartek who was riding 3-4 days ahead of us.

It was a dear re-union and we quickly decided to not leave Guazhou the same afternoon and instead stay there that night. Bartek had stayed in a cheap hotel and offered us to stay in his room. Wang – our MTB riding friend in Hami – had told us that his friend runs a hotel in Guazhou and if we needed anywhere to stay we should just let Wang know. After exchanging a few text messages Wang said that we could stay for free in his friends hotel.

Initially we couldn’t find the hotel and had to ask quite a few people about the way there. It then turned out to be almost opposite to the bus station. We had expected it to be a cheap local hotel but when we finally found our way there we discovered a brand new 4 star hotel.

Wej and I went in and told the front desk staff that we were friends of Wang. They then said ”welcome – here is your key”. When we handed over three passports they were a bit confused but soon after Bartek got a key to a room on his own too. We were prepared to stay together but we were treated like VIP:s and a hotel worker soon came with a large tray of fresh fruit to our room. Not knowing where we will stay the next night is one of the joys with this kind of journey. It can be in a culvert under the road or it can be for free in a 4 star hotel.

The hotel was wonderful and the breakfast buffet was the best so far. It is amazing how nicely we are treated – we have only met Wang for a few hours and he has already hosted us for dinner and made his friend host us in his luxury hotel. Unfortunately we never met Wang’s friend who owns the hotel and couldn’t thank him properly in person.

I have read that most of China’s electricity is generated by coal-fired power plants and we have cycled past many of them. We have also seen that China invests heavily in renewable energy. In the Taklamakan desert we saw a couple of wind turbine farms that consisted of thousands of turbines and when we came to the city of Guazhou located in the outskirts of the Gobi desert we passed some more wind farms. The city also has a factory building wind turbines and a very common sight on the highway was the enormously long trucks carrying the rotor wings or sections of the towers.

As if it wasn’t enough with wind power it also seems that the Chinese are investing heavily in research and production of solar cells. We have passed hundreds of masts with antennas to the cell phone network and all of them are surrounded by solar cells that I believe is providing electricity to the antenna.

When we left Turpan we passed a suburb with newly built apartment blocks and the roofs of those buildings were covered with solar cell panels to generate electricity.

A very simple way to make use of the sun’s power is to let it heat water for domestic use. In every city and village we see the solar collectors on the rooftops of all sorts of buildings. They can be seen on top of large apartment blocks but also in small houses on the country side. The hotel we are staying at here in Zhangye has a number of solar collectors on the roof and every morning we can take a sustainable shower.

Both thai and chinese cities have a lot of motorcycles. In Thailand they are noisy and contribute to the bad air in the towns. In China the motorbikes look like scooters but are powered by electricity. They are soundless (dangerous when walking…) and they produce no exhausts. Of course there are exhausts from the coal fired power plants, but they are outside the cities.

Thailand has a lot of sunshine and I hope that she one day will make use of the sun’s energy in the same way as China does. Thai cities would definately be much more pleasant to stay in if electric scooters were to become as popular as they are here.

The day we left Guazhou was a day which slowly took us uphill. The climb wasn’t as annoying as the headwind and riding by thousands of wind turbines that all face towards the direction we are cycling is directly de-motivating.

The weather forecast for the day when would leave Guazhou was headwind from around 11 AM so we should actually have started early, but it is difficult to get started early when you stay at a luxury hotel… 😉
The road was rather boring and it was the same sandy landscape that we have got used to the last couple of weeks. However, it was much easier to ride in this landscape now since we knew that in only a few days we would leave the sand and get into greener areas.

We had seen on google map that there was a service area some 60 km from Guazhou. It was signposted all the way but when we finally arrived there it turned out that the place was under construction. Neither food, nor water was for sale and the workers told us that the next place where we could eat was 20-30 km away. There was nothing to do than to head out into the headwind again and pedal those kilometers.

After 25 kilometers we arrived at a small village that has a tourist attraction consisting of some very old ruins. There was a restaurant behind the museum where we could have both a dinner and get a hot shower. The plan was to ride on another 2-3 kilometers and pitch our tents, but there was an enormous amount of mosquitos so we asked if we could stay at the petrol station in front of the museum. Unfortunately there was no room for us there but the staff helped us to find another room and we ended up sleeping in the museum guards’ room.

On day three after leaving Guazhou we finally left the desert. The surroundings turned green, we had downhill and tailwind and if it wasn’t for two flat tyres it couldn’t get any better. It was a wonderful feeling to look at flower fields after having seen almost only sand and rocks during the last month.

We have entered an area where there is much more agricultural activity going on than what we have previously seen in China. The photo below shows farmers harvesting onions.

After three days of cycling from Guazhou we reached a small town named Qingshui. We were not sure if there would be any hotel there but we went in to have a look. The locals showed us the way to the only hotel which, as we already expected, had no license to host foreigners. The nice lady who runs the place then made a phone call to the police to ask for permission to host us. The permission was granted but we needed to go to the police station in person to register. The hotel staff drove us there in a car and 10 minutes later we were on our way back.

I don’t understand this thing with all these registrations of foreigners movements. It is allowed to camp without registering, but the authorities want to know if we stay in a hotel. If they wanted to konw where we are all the time – why then allow wild camping???

The weather is great now. It is never hot during day time any longer and the evenings are pleasantly cool, almost a bit cold and we need to put on sweaters or our jackets. It feels very much like the early autumn in Sweden with clear skies and fresh air.

The last day of cycling into Zhangye started with a clear sky offering great views of the snow capped mountains on our right hand side. We stopped many times to take photos, but a few hours later the sky got cloudy and it started to rain heavily. The temperature dropped to 12 degrees and when I asked Wej about where we had this kind of rain last time she immediately replied ”in Sweden….”.

There was nothing to do but keep riding. We discussed the weather we had experienced during our way here and remembered that the last day with cold rain was when we cycled into Krakow in Poland in March – after that it has been either snowstorms, sandstorms, terrible heat or only light rain….
The rain stopped after only one hour, the sunshine came back and the temperatures rose back to around 22 degrees. and our clothes got dry again as we rode the final kilometers on the highway before turning into the city of Zhangye.

We soon found a hotel and when we had showered and were sitting in the room waiting for our friend Bartek to arrive it started to rain heavily again. We were happy to be safely inside and felt pity for good old Bartek who had to fight in the cold rain all by himself.

It took us a day to get our bikes properly serviced and now they are fit for fight for the remaining distance to Bangkok. We don’t carry the tools needed to service the hubs and bearings ourselves so we’ll let someone take a look at them in about 3000 kilometers.

Whilst staying in Hami we started to discuss and investigate routes for the remaining distance through China and came to a couple of conclusions.

First conclusion was that we need to get rid of some of our baggage. We emptied our panniers and put everything in three piles – needed – maybe needed – absolutely not needed items. Then we packed most of the not needed and maybe needed things and sent to Bangkok. Wew also threw away some stuff. The box that went to Thailand weighs 3.5 kg and the bag we throw away maybe 2 kg so now we have plenty of room in our panniers.

So what did items did we get rid of?

We have two sets of off bike clothes and only kept one. Gloves, rain gear and warm fleece sweaters were all sent to Bangkok.

We knew it would be hard to find good quality spare parts in Georgia, Azerbaijan and the central asian republics so we carried a lot of extra wires, housing, nuts and bolts, chains and even a bottom bracket. In China there are good bike shops everywhere so we left all that at the hotel and hopefully someone will take care of it because the things are good and in working condition.

Are we brave or stupid to get rid of our rain gear and sweaters when we plan to ride some high altitude roads?

We don’t know – future will prove it was a good decision, but we reason that if it gets cold we can buy a new sweater. They actually produce such things here in this country… 😉 And we have kept the jackets that Klättermusen kindly sponsored us with. They are made of tightly wowen cotton and can take a lot of rain before we get will wet and they are much more ventilating than the goretex jackets sent home.

With bikes serviced and panniers a lot lighter we feel we are ready for the journey through China.

Next conclusion was that we also have run into a problem regarding our visas. They are valid until October 10 and we expect to be around Chengdu by then. It is usually possible to extend visas with 30 days and that is what we have counted on. One problem is that when it is time to apply for extension we will be in the middle of the ”Golden week” (october 1-7) when China closes down and every one goes away on holiday. We suspect that this applies to the guys at the visa extension office too.

Another problem is that China introduced a new legislation on September 1st and the rumours say that it will be more difficult to get extensions after this change. Beside this our passports (we have two each) with the chinese visas will have a too short remaining validity (lacks two weeks) when it is time to renew the visa which may, or may not, cause us a problem.

We have been resting safely in the thought that we would have no visa related problems left, but when we discovered this we decided to stay yet another day in Hami to investigate everything and make back up plans. The backup plan is to combine a few rest days with a visa run to Hong Kong, which is a city we have planned to visit some time anyway.

Everything takes very long time in China since most communication needs to be done through translation apps in smartphones (these apps are good, but still need to be worked on… 😉 ) and it took us one day to get the bikes serviced, one day to go through what to send home, locate the post office and once there get the staff to understand what we wanted. Then we spent half of the third day in Hami googleing the internet for visa related information and info about our coming route.

Our visa situation and the knowledge that we still have around 1000 km of desert to ride we had to make a decision. If we want to ride all the way it has to be on the shortest and maybe not most interesting roads. We prefer mountains to deserts 10 days in a week and there are lots of desert and mountains ahead. Since we have seen a lot of desert already we decided to press FF (fast forward on a tape recorder if you remember those relics from the 80:s) and take a bus to cover the distance we couldn’t cycle when we stayed in Hami.

Buying a ticket wasn’t simple at all. First we spent two hours in the hotel’s reception trying to ask the front desk staff about how train tickets are bought in China. Then one of the staff got in a car and followed us to the train ticket office only to find out that tickets that day were sold out. We then continued to the bus station and bought tickets to Guazhou 450 km away.

We wouldn’t have been able to sort this out ourselves and we are very grateful to the lady at the hotel who helped us securing tickets.

Somebody knocked on the door to the hotel room yesterday night. It turned out to be the man on the MTB who took us out for dinner the first night in Hami. He came to say good bye and had his son Wang Yudo with him. The boy is only 11 and wanted to practise his English, which is already good for his age. We spent a few hours looking at photos from places we have visited before they left.

When we arrived at the bus station in the morning our MTB friend was there to help us find the right bus and talk to the driver to accept carrying our bikes. It was very kind of him to turn up to do this and we are very grateful since it saved us a lot of headache.

I am writing this post on the bus. Our bikes and panniers are stored in the cargo hold below us and are hopefully enjoying the company of a live sheep in a sack and a box of mice that was loaded at the first stop after leaving Hami.

I have not been too happy about having to cheat and go by bus, but when I see the boring sandy landscape outside the window that we have seen so much of already, I am happy that we skip this part and now I look forward to riding in green surroundings and climbing steep hills in central China……

Finding a hotel where we are allowed to stay can be difficult in China since most hotels don’t have a license to host foreign citizens. We can’t understand this annoying and somewhat xenophobic rule that makes life complicated.

Turpan has a fair share of foreign tourists though and the hotels recommended in our guide book all have a license to host foreigners so finding a place to stay there wasn’t difficult.

The hotel’s exterior was very different from its enterior. On the outside was covered with simple white tiles and didn’t look very attractive. In the lobby the impression was totally different with an Arabian Night-style design. This hotel is mainly a hotel for backpackers and is the cheapest in town and the good look of the lobby didn’t last all the way into the rooms which could do with a renovation.

The distance from Turpan to Hami is slightly less than 400 km and could be done in three long days or four shorter days. We are trying a new strategy now and instead of cycling very long distances with a restday every 4-5 days we will now ride shorter each day but with longer time between the restdays. This meant that our plan was to cycle to Hami in four days, or three normal days and one half day.

The city of Turpan is in the Turpan depression which is China’s lowest area with the deepest point around 150 meters below the sea level. It is also China’s hottest area which we could feel clearly when we descended from the surrounding mountains into the depression. The day when we left Turpan we were a bit lucky since the sky was cloudy and the temperatures not too hot.

The region around Turpan is famous for its fruit orchards and the grapes are supposed to be the best in China. Being the hottest place also means that they are producing a lot of dried fruits and we had to stop and buy some dried figs which we have proven to be an energy booster just as good as any expensive power bar.

All the way out of Turpan and even further on we found large brick buildings with plenty of holes in the walls. We suspect these structures are used for drying something, maybe fruit, but if so why would they then dry the grapes on big pieces of plastic outside these buildings. We don’t understand and we hope we will be able to uncover the usage of this type of building.

Our target for the first day after leaving Turpan was to reach Shanshan which is a city some 90 km further east. The ride there was smooth and there wasn’t much of wind from any direction. The initial plan was to camp every night between Turpan and Hami but halfways to Shanshan we discussed the type of accomodation for the night and both of us didn’t want to camp. We simply wanted to stay indoor and when we entered town we saw a small hotel.

Wej went in and it turned out that also this hotel weren’t allowed to host foreigners but they kindly told us how to get to the one that has the correct license, which turned out to be a big and very fancy hotel. It was quite a bit more expensive than we would have wanted but since it was late in the afternoon and we didn’t want to run around looking for another hotel we decided to stay at this expensive hotel.

The rule ”what you pay is what you get” could certainly be applied on this hotel. The room was like a small apartment and even had a bathtub. Many hotels do have bathtubs, but they are usually not very clean. This one was spotless and I couldn’t resist to fill it up with hot water and soak there for an hour while enjoying a cold beer. I don’t remember when I was this clean last time….

We stayed at the 11th floor and when we woke up the following morning and looked out from our panorama windows we could hardly see anything. A dense mist covered the view of the city. The breakfast buffet was the best so far in China and we robbed the hotel of some boiled eggs and pancakes to bring along for lunch.

After checking out and loading our bikes we discovered two things. The first thing was that it was very windy and the mist wasn’t mist but dust from the surrounding desert. The other thing was that Wej’s rear tyre had got flat during the night. Dusty headwind and a flat tyre made us want to go back into the hotel, buy some more beer, fill the bathtub and stay an extra day…..  But we repaired the tyre and started to cycle out of town.

After about two hours it got a bit chilly and started to rain lightly. It is amazing – yesterday we felt like we were in a cooking oven and today we had to stop at a gas station to buy some hot noodle soup and put on our jackets.

We are tired of getting flat tyres and today we tried a new strategy which was to avoid the motorway and go on the small old road. It is slightly longer and it’s not possible to ride as fast as on the highway, but we get to see villages as we pass and interact with the locals.

The strategy to avoid punctures worked and we got none during this day. When the old road and the new motorway merged we were afraid we would start getting flat tyres again. The dusty headwind in the morning had briefly turned to a light tailwind, but after our stop to put on jackets and eat some hot soup it shifted once again to a light headwind. Our aim was to get to a service area on the motorway some 85 km from Shanshan. However, Mother Nature and Father Mechanics had different plans for us….

Some 15 km after leaving the gas station the pedal on my right hand side got jammed and wouldn’t turn around its own axis. It was stuck and I couldn’t pedal so I stopped and rocked it a bit and then it worked again, but it now it made some really strange noices. I remember my thoughts were to get this checked once we got to Hami.

In the late afternoon the light headwind suddenly grew a lot stronger. When looking to our left side we could see a clear vertical line in the sky. To the left it was misty or dusty and to the right it was clear blue sky. As long as we stayed in the dusty part the wind was OK, but when we got over that line and into the clear area the wind got so strong that we had problems staying on our bikes. Then my pedal got completely stuck and wouldn’t turn even after I rocked it. With a jammed pedal and a wind that kept blowing us off the road we decided to seek a temporary shelter. The logic behind this was that if the strong wind started so quickly then it would end just as fast if we only waited for some time.

While waiting I managed to get my pedal to turn around albeit not smoothly – it still made strange sounds. After half an hour it felt like the wind had ceased and we tried to start cycling again, but only got about 1.5 kilometers before both the pedal and the wind forced us to stop. This time we decided we had had enough and started to look for somewhere to pitch our tent.

We found no place that could protect our tent from the strong winds and the ground was rock hard so we decided to stay in a culvert under the road where we used our panniers to build a wall to protect us from the wind. It was a windy night to say the least and during the night the wind changed direction slightly and started to blow straight into the culvert we were staying, but the wall we had built took most of the wind.

The following morning Wej discovered that her rear wheel was flat…. She fixed it while I attended to my pedal. As it wasn’t enough with a jammed pedal and a flat tyre Wej also discovered a dangerously big play in the bearings in her rear hub. The wheel could sway around far too much and this was something that needed to be attended to very soon.

My pedal was still stuck and I took it apart to grease the bearings but couldn’t get to them due to a lack of proper tools.  The pedal should have been serviced long time ago, but now it turns out that the bearings are wasted and the pedal very hard to use.

We had a situation with a useless pedal, a hub with a too big play to make us comfortable, more flat tyres and a strong headwind added to all this. The 300 km part between Shanshan and Hami is a distance which has very few facilities along the road and we were reluctant to go further into this isolated area with the problems we had so what to do?

Going back is never an option and our decision was to try to ride to the next service station which was 20 km away and hitchhike from there into Hami where we could get our bikes serviced. It took a long time and when we finally got to the service station it turned out to be under construction and not in operation. That was really bad news to us and our spirits where at a bottom low.

At the side of the road was a van with two guys sleeping inside. We started to hitchhike without luck but we kept an eye on the van and decided that we would try to go with it. When the guys woke up we walked over to them and asked if they could drive us the 230 km to Hami if we paid them well. They were willing to do it, but they had work to do and no time for such a long detour. However, they offered us to go with them for 80 km which turned out to be only 30 km. We stopped at an exit from the highway and for an hour they tried to stop passig cars, trucks and pickup cars but all their efforts were in vain.

We were now far into the section of the road where there is nothing and we didn’t feel comfortable at all being there with bikes that were hard to ride and a very long distance to the next service area where we could count on getting food and water.

All of our conversation with these guys went through the google translate app we have in our iphone. This way we knew that the guys were going to meet some collegues which was the reason for them not being able to drive us all the way, but all of a sudden they started to load our bikes and luggage into their van and told us to get in. Then they started to drive and we didn’t know where or how far they would take us.

After having driven for another 60 km we arrived at a combined tollstation and service area. A new conversation started where they told us that they couldn’t go further because they lacked the type of driving license needed to drive on the tollway. I think they spent 45 minutes walking around trying to find someone who could take us before asking a police officer if he could tell someone to bring us the remaining 140 km into Hami.

The police officer then told us to wait for the bus that would come in 15 minutes…..

We wanted to pay these young men for at least the petrol and preferably even for their time, but they wouldn’t accept anything. Wej even tried to force some money into one of the guy’s pocket but he just forced them back into her pocket. It looked like they were fighting. In the end we left our saviours from the desert whose name we don’t even know, but we are very very grateful for their help.

It was dark when we arrived to Hami and we rode slowly (my pedal was still bad) from the busterminal into the center. We saw a hotel and Wej went into ask and was told that they could host foreign guests. When we had parked the bikes in a store room and carried the bags to the lobby we were informed that they couldn’t host us after all. They told us to go to another hotel but we couldn’t figure out which it was.

When we cycled towards the train station where we know there were guesthouses with license to host foreigners, a cyclist approached us from behind and started to talk to Wej. He was on a brand new MTB and looked like a recreational cyclist. He showed us to a nearby hotel and told us he wanted to have dinner with us. We left bikes and bags in the hotel and walked to his house and took his car to a local restaurant not very far away. It was the second time in the same day that people stepped out of their way to help us and we are really starting to like the chinese people.

Next day we took our bikes to the bike shop our dinner host had showed us. I bought a set of brand new pedals and when the mechanic had looked at Wejs rear hub he said the bearings and the cone needed to be changed. We quickly decided that we would let him do a full service and now the bearings of all four wheels are serviced, I have new pedals and my shifter cable and its housing is replaced and Wej has a new mirror.

While we were waiting at the shop for the mechanic we got a SMS message from our dinner host last night. He asked if we wanted to have lunch. We replied “yeas please, but when and where” and he wrote back “now”. 10 minutes later three young women and a slightly older man came and picked us up and took us to a dumpling restaurant. Our dinner host didn’t come, but we had a great time with his friends instead.

It is amazing how quickly things can turn around. From a terrible situation in the desert in the morning to a nice dinner in the evening in town and all technical things solved the morning after – all in 24 hours.

Day 109 Korla – Yanqi 59 km
Day 110 Yanqi – Service station 155 km
Day 111 Service station – Toksun 119 km
Day 112 Toksun – Turpan 68 km

We got lost when we left Korla and didn’t find the way back to the motorway. Instead of riding on the smooth tarmac we ended up leaving the town on a small dirtroad that took us through the industrial areas at the outskirts of town. There was an intense traffic of trucks and we felt much more unsafe on this little side road than on the big motorway and our intention was to get back to it as quickly as possible.

Although Korla is a oasis city with lots of greenery, parks and tree lined avenues, the desert is not far away. Right after having left the industrial areas of the town we got this view which clearly shows how close the desert and the city are to each other.

Leaving town on a backroad took us through some very beuatiful mountain areas. The road was steep and the surface was just gravel but there was very little traffic and we could enjoy the scenery undisturbed by cars and trucks.

We followed this little backroad as it twisted itself through a valley, but all of a sudden it was going to pass under the motorway. There was a staircase down from the motorway and we wouldn’t allow ourselves to miss an opportunity like this and quickly carried our bikes and luggage up to the big and nice road where we could continue at a much higher speed.

The desert is dry – that is actually the definition of a desert – but there are exceptions. When we approached the city of Yanqi we went across a bridge over a river leading from the Tian Shan mountains to Lake Bosten. This lake is half the size of lake Vättern in Sweden and we saw a number of signs for seaside (lakeside?) resorts with pictures of kids playing on banana boats…..

When we passed this stream we could see herons and other seabirds in or around the water. Seeing a heron in a desert is something I never would have expected.

When we got closer to the city of Yanqi it turned out that even this city would have been a big city by Swedish standards. It has a lot of high rise buildings in the centre and in the surrounding areas we could see numerous construction sites where large apartment blocks were being built.

Korla and Yanqi are not far apart, only some 60 km. Our intention was to have a half day of rest and start late which meant we couldn’t expect to get any further than Yanqi. We didn’t want to camp and went into the city to find a hotel to stay at. For the first time we ran into the trouble all foreigners traveling to cities off the beaten track in China sooner or later have to face – finding a hotel. Hotels in China needs a special license to be able to host foreigners.

The first hotel we asked wouldn’t host us but told us try at another further down the street. On the way there we found another one that labelled itself as a business hotel. Wej went in to ask but was denied and told to go to another hotel. The front desk staff helped her by drawing a map how to get there.

We find it very interesting how a hotel in an country so reliant on export as China is, can call itself ”business hotel” while not being able to host a foreigner.

When we later arrived at the only hotel being able to host us Wej went inside to check in while I waited outside. A young boy at the age of around 5 walked past me holding his parents hands. He was so surprised to see me and stared so intensly that his eyes almost popped out. When he had passed he almost walked backwards staring at me while his poor parents seemed to be embarrased for his behaviour.

As we made eye contact the parents lost their embarrasment. I told the boy to come and shake my hand and his parents encouraged him. He walked slowly as if he was approaching a kid eating monster…. 🙂

All the way we have got used to be the odd ones, but here in China it is only me. Wej blends in and everyone seems to think that she is chinese, which is not completely wrong. Nobody expects me to be able to speak chinese so every time Wej is approached by curious people I can take a step back and pretend to be a kid eating monster.

The ride from Yanqi towards the town of Hoxhud was not very interesting. It was the same old motorway and the same old mountains. After a stop at a gas station just after a tollstation we continued towards the next service area some 110 km away where we intended to camp.

Before reaching that service area the road crosses the mountain ridge that we having been cycling along for almost two weeks and that we have got bored starting at. When going across those mountains we got some very nice views. The landscape changed from rather boring to very fascinating within only a few kilometers.

On the way down we got some very nice downhill sections where we overtook many trucks that descended from the mountains at very low speed using their lowest gears. At one of the turns we saw something we didn’t know what it was. It looked like a ramp beside one of the sharp bends of the road. When we got closer we saw that the ramp was signposted many times and covered by a thick layer of gravel which made us believe that this was a ramp where runaway trucks that have lost their capactiy to brake can get their vehicles to a stop.

I have never seen such ramps before but I have now learnt that they are common in mountainous regions throughout the world.

On the day we cycled to Toksun we started at around 1000 meters altitude and climbed up to 1750 meters. It was a smooth climb on the shoulder of the motorway. We stopped many times to take photos of the very beautiful landscape. When it then was time to descend we would loose very much altitude. Toksun is located in the Turpan depression which is the lowest lying area in China. The deepest part of the depression is around 150 meters below the sea level.

When we descended we felt it got warmer and warmer and when we reached the outskirts of Toksun the heat was almost unbearable. Just as we rolled into the first eatery at the entry to the town I got today’s first flat tyre. I only had to walk the bicycle 5 meters and could fix it in the shade at the restaurant. It wouldn’t have been fun to change innertubes in the heat outside that restaurant so I didn’t complain. If to get a puncture in extreme heat it is good to get it 5 meters from where you would have stopped anyway…. 🙂

We stayed quite a long time at the restaurant to both eat and wait for the cooler evening hours. We planned to cycled through the city and camp outside, but in an intersection I got today’s second flat tyre. Since the sun was just about to set we changed to a new innertube in less than 10 minutes – we are improving our team work when it comes to fixing flat tyres….

After some 5-6 km I felt that the wheel we jsut repaired got softer and softer and I suspected we had been too quick when repairing it. Too tired to fix it we turned into the first camp spot we could find which turned out to be next to an onion field.

The ride from Toksun to Turpan took us over a vast plain of stony desert. On the way down a hill I saw wind turbines. Not one, not 10, not 1000 but thousands. They were placed in the desert and they all faced to direction where we were going 🙁

We arrived to Turpan early in the afternoon. Our plan was to take a rest in the afternoon and start early tomorrow.

Day 105 Aksu – Wutan 67 km
Day 106 Wutan – Service station Xinhe 168 km
Day 107 Service station Xinhe – Yangxia Service station 178 km
Day 108 Yangxia Service station – Korla 139 km

It seems that it is impossible for us to make an early start every time we stay at a nice hotel. The breakfast buffet is something we don’t want to miss and then it takes time to pack and carry down our luggage, get our bikes and then find our way out of the city.

The last part takes more time than one would imagine. When we camp, we can just load our bikes and continue in the same direction without having to navigate out of a large city with many roads leading in different directions.

There are two main roads that go in an east-west direction along the northern end of the Taklamakan desert. One of them is the old road and the other is a big and very nice motorway (we cycled on un-finished parts of it from Kashgar).

We have heard stories from other cyclists that it is OK to cycle on Chinese motorways, at least in the western part of the country where there are not any really good alternatives. Outside Aksu there is a large intersection where the old road and the motorway cross each other. Clear signs showed that pedestrians, motorcycles, horse carriages and bicycles are not allowed on the motorway. What to do, follow the law and go on the smaller and longer old road or break the law and go on the smooth, shorter and bigger motorway?

China is a big country and it accounts for about 1/3 of our entire trip. Our visa is valid for 60 days and can only be extended once with 30 more days so we will need to move on quickly. The landscape in this part of China is not very exiting so we have decided to try to put in as many kilometers as possible in this region so we chose going on the motorway.

This motorway is a tollway and after 3 kilometers we came to a toll station. We were afraid that they might tell us to turn back and go on the old road but instead the lady in the ticket booth waved us through and indicated by pointing that we should ride on the shoulder.

We have passed many tollstations since we first got on the motorway. They have all waved us through but one day there was a police checkpoint immediately after the toll station. The police officer pointed in our direction but we thought he pointed at the truck behind us. When we continued cycling he made it clear that he wanted us to stop by pointing directly at us and where we should stop. Having been to many police checkpoints before we gave the officer our passport even before he asked for them. He then flipped among the pages and carefully inspected us, the photos and our expired visa for Uzbekistan before he allowed us to go. It is good that the police keep a high level of security. How would it look if foreigners were running around in China with the wrong type of Uzbekistan visas in their passports….. 😉

The motorway is very modern. It has two lanes and a very wide shoulder – actually that shoulder is just as wide as each lane, and nobody travels on that shoulder. Nobody but two cyclists on their way from Göteborg to Bangkok.

There are advantages and disadvantages by cycling on a motorway. The main advantage is that we can travel at high speed and do many kilometers per day. The disadvantages is that it is far between gas stations or shops (up to 100 km) and that the motorway is fenced off by a barbed wire fence along its route.

Although the road was very good to ride on our late start meant that we didn’t get very far and since we hadn’t learnt how to deal with the motorway yet, we decided to leave it and ride to a small town on the old road. In the middle of that town Wej spotted something she thought was a hotel. She stopped, went in and came out and told me that there was a room for 80 Yuan (10 €). The room had definately seen better days but we didn’t mind.

Having eaten mainly central asian food even since we entered China we were happy to find a chinese restaurant in front of our ”hotel”.

The following morning was cool and I decided to wear my long pants and jacket. I have sometimes considered to send them home, but I needed them in Kyrgyzstan and now I needed them in the chinese desert too.

After 30 km on the old road we once again entered the new motorway that goes along the mountain ridge. The landscape is rather boring and it wouldn’t have been better if we had cycled on the old road which sometimes is next to where we cycle or sometimes very far away. The traffic on the motorway was not intense at all and we could do many kilometers without putting in too much effort.

So why do we cycle along a road that isn’t very beautiful, has few cities and tourist attractions? Why simply not take the train?

The answer to this takes us back to the topic about bikers vs. travelers that is often dicussed among cycling enthusiasts.

A biker is someone who wants to cycle from A to B just to have done it and who is mainly not interested in exploring what is in between A and B. The biker may want to prove that it is possible or want to do it under a certain time etc.

A traveler is the opposite. For the traveler it is not the cycling that is important. The traveler have for one reason or another found out that a bicycle is a very suitable means of transportation when exploring the world. A traveler wouldn’t mind taking a train to skip some uninteresting parts.

During our journey we have met many cycling tourists, some can easily be labeled as bikers, some as pure cycle travelers and some have been something in between.

I have written about this before but I think it is now time to come back to the question of what we are, bikers or travelers?

We think that we are a bit of both. While we hadn’t yet crossed the Caspian Sean we saw ourselves as mainly travelers. We enjoyed meeting people, doing sidetrips, having nice food in restaurants and going to museums and so on.

The endeavors in the Kazak and Uzbek deserts put us more into the biker category. We could have gone by train this part, but we wanted to try to cycle in a dessert and having come all the way here on our own wheels we wanted to continue to go by our own muscle power. I think it is fair to say that we have now moved into the biker category – if we move back to the traveler category, we will soon be on a train through this region….

Riding on the motorway along the Taklamakan desert is nothing exiting at all. When it can’t be an exiting journey through a interesting landscape it may still be a journey into the landscapes of one’s own mind. Cycling kilometer after kilometer and the views stay the same, the same kind of trucks pass every few minutes and sometimes the road does a little bend – that’s what happens during our days now. Sometimes we play games such as guessing who can make the best guess of the distance to a bridge that we can see far ahead of us.

It would be great to listen to music or audio books but we don’t dare to not be able to hear the oncoming traffic. If there is no traffic we ride beside each other and talk.

So what else to do to kill the time?

I personally have allowed myself to start thinking of the end of this journey. Before, when we were still in Turkey or Caucasus, I would immediately force myself to think about something else everytime my brain painted the picture of me arriving to Banglen or riding across the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok. Now I have started to allow myself to think about how it will be to get there, what kind of reactions I think I will have, what I would like to do when I arrive and so on.

We arrived China on August 12 so we have to leave the country no later than November 10 and then to Laos which is a neighbour to Thailand, so it is as fair to start thinking about getting there as it was to think about riding into Istanbul when we boarded the ferry that took us to Poland.

If entertaining oneself by fantasies about the end of the trip isn’t enough, one could always resort to some practical jobs such as fixing flat tyres…..

The service areas with gas stations and shops are far apart but there are a few signs indicating the distance to the next one. Towards the end of the second day after leaving Aksu we spotted the service area from far away. 500 meter before arriving there I got a flat tyre on my rear wheel. First I thought about walking the bike to the service area, but then I re-considered and decided to change the innertube beside the road.

20 minutes later we rolled into the service area. It was late in the afternoon and time to find a place to camp. Our intention was to cook our own food so we only needed to buy some water and wash ourselves at the restrooms. Unfortunately the water was turned off so we couldn’t wash away the dust on our faces. When we left the service area I got a second flat tyre when I was still on the entry ramp to the motorway.

Two flat tyres within a kilometer is one too much. We walked back to the service station and I changed to yet another innertube and repaired the two ones that had got a puncture.
Being delayed by the flat tyre we had to quickly find a camp site and only 2 km from the service station we found a hole in the barbed wire fence where we could get off the motorway.

When I moved our bikes away after having had our dinner beside the tent I discovered that my rear tyre was flat again. Three punctures in one day….. 🙂

Wej urged me to throw away my old tyre and use the spare one we bought in Baku. I am not so convinced that it is as strong as the old one I have so I decided to only swap places. Front tyre was moved to the rear wheel and vice versa.

Although we started a bit late due to our work with changing tyres and patching holes in our innertubes we managed to make almost 180 km the third day after leaving Aksu.

Google maps had indicated that there was a service station far away and these places usually has shops that sell food and water so we pressed hard to get there only to discover that this place was under construction. There was only a small food stall there and no restrooms. We bought two dozens of 0.5 liter water and used these to shower before going to bed in front of one of the buildings that were under construction.

The next morning all hell broke loose….

After 471 meter I got my first flat tyre… Of course on the rear wheel (more difficult to change). I hadn’t even left the service area yet and I was disappointed to say the least.

Wej usually gets 1 flat tyre when I get 10, but after 21 km Wej got her 5th flat tyre on this trip (rear wheel). We changed it and continued and after 54 kilometers we arrived at a service area and decided to have lunch. We parked our bikes beside the table and when it was time to leave I saw that there was no air in my rear tyre….. 🙁

There was nothing to do but to change the innertube while all the kids around and the ladies working at the restaurant were watching.

36 kilometers later (at 90 km that day) Wej shouts the all too familiar words ”My tyre is flat”.

I got completely mad….. The sunshine was strong and we brought her bike and all tools to a culvert under the road and repaired it there. Once again it was a very thin and sharp little steel wire that had penetrated the wheel – this time at three different positions.

We were now starting to run out of patches to repair the punctures and our pump show signs of wearing out so the situation was not good.

Those steel wires were the culprits behind all our punctures the last few days but where do they come from? They are so small that is impossible to see them when cycling and we felt we didn’t have a fair chance to avoid them.

Later when we were back on the road I stopped and took a look at a black string that lay on the roadside. It was a piece of a burst car or truck tyre that contained a metal cord. Now we knew where the little steel wires penetrating our tyres came from and we started to point at them to warn each other.

This is really disturbing and when we talked to our polish friend who rides 4 days ahead of us he confirmed that he had also got a couple of flat tyres when cycling on the highway.

When we made it to the top of a little hill we suddenly saw the city of Korla. We thought it would be a small town, but instead we saw a city with a skyline. It has 700.000 inhabitants and is a small provincial town by chinese measures….

When we cycled into the city we spotted a proper bicycle shop. We stopped and wanted to patches and a new pump. I also needed to true my rear wheel and what happened was that we stopped for a day to settle all our bike matters. Both bikes now have new cassettes, chains and we have bought extra thick innertubes, 3 tubes of glue and 50 patches. We hope that will be enough to take us to our next target – Turpan which is almost 400 km from here.

China is a big country and the distance to cycle in this country is around 5500 km. We only have a 60 day visa and we estimate it will take us around 80 days to get through so we will need to extend the validity of the visa somewhere. This puts some time pressure on us. Since the landscape in this area isn’t very exiting and that the towns and villages are far apart we feel we can as well press on and get some kilometers done.

This and the coming weeks we will be chewing kilometers for breakfast, lunch and dinner and although we only cycle and do no sightseeing there are stories to be told but after having done almost 180 km today and 170 yesterday we both feel we should prioritize sleep instead of writing. The forecast for tomorrow is headwind and we hope we will be able to make it to the city of Korla where we would like to stay at a hotel and update this blog with some stories from the road along the Taklamakan desert.

This service area along the highway is unfinished so there are no restrooms and no running water. After 180 km in the sunshine we needed a shower and bought two dozens of 0,5 liter bottles of drinking water. We showered on the stairs next to were we sleep and this is the only photo of Wej showering that will ever be published on this blog.

Right now we are sleeping under the sky at an un-finished service along the main highway. The photo below is the latest photo taken with our camera and shows me as I write this very blogpost 🙂